Ascent Record

1. Climbing area: Kamchatka. Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes.
2. Name of the peak: Ploskaya Dalnaya — Ushkovsky 3943 m. Eastern slope.
3. Suggested category of difficulty — 2A.
4. Type of route: ice and snow.
5. Height difference: 1200 m.
6. Route length: 2.5 km.
7. Average steepness: 35°.
8. Moving time: 7 hours.
9. Number of days: 1 day.

25

Cartographic scheme of the area

Description of the ascent to Ploskaya Blizhnyaya peak via the eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty

Ploskaya Blizhnyaya sopka is part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. This peak in Kamchatka is the third highest. Its absolute height above sea level is 4108 m. Ploskaya Blizhnyaya sopka is of volcanic origin. It is an old extinct volcano. Its slopes are composed of volcanic rocks:

• basalt,
• tuff,
• diabase. The peak rises above the largest glacier in Kamchatka - the Svetly glacier. The height above sea level in this area is 2700 m. The sopka has a very large glaciation from the foot to the summit. The glaciers flowing down to the northeast and east flow into the Svetly glacier. On the eastern side, in the areas of sheer walls, there are quite extensive rocky ridges composed of strong and loose volcanic rocks. To the northeast - sheer rocky and icy walls from the summit to the Svetly glacier (ancient volcanic crater). The northern slopes of the sopka are gentle and are of no particular interest from an alpinism point of view. To the west, the sopka is connected by a vast glaciated isthmus with Ploskaya Dalnyaya sopka. The summit of the sopka is a powerful dome-shaped glacier with a slight slope in all directions except the northeast, where it is bounded by the walls of the ancient crater.

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39A

Description

Ascent to Ostry Tolbachik via the Western ridge. Route 3–6 cat. sl.

Ostry Tolbachik

Passage of the 3rd route. △ — overnight stay locations. R — control tour. The beginning of the approach description to the stream is given in the description of the north-western route. Along the stream descending from the plateau, which approaches the north-western ridge, descent into the valley, separating the north-western ridge and the western one. The descent runs along grassy slopes and is technically simple. Having descended into the valley, it can be seen that to the right of the descent direction the western ridge is bristling with rocky pillars, and to the left glaciers descend into the valley. Having descended into the valley, we turn left along the track to a prominent cliff from the western ridge; this cliff must be bypassed from the western side along grassy slopes, which lead to a grassy glade. The glade encircles this cliff in a semicircle and is easily bypassed from the south-western side. This place is the starting point of the ascent in the western direction. The time required for the approach from the stream with descent and ascent is 1.5–2 hours. Height above sea level is 1600 m.

Route description by sections

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ASCENT DESCRIPTION FOR TOLBACHIK OSTRY VIA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B

The volcanoes Tolbachik Ostry and Tolbachik Plosky have glaciated peaks with glaciers descending to 1000–1100 m above sea level. Routes to the summit of Tolbachik Ostry go via snow and ice slopes, and only from the south and south-east, rocky ridges lead to the summit, which fall short by 150–200 m. On all other sides, the ridges terminate at heights of 1600–2100 m. The summit of Tolbachik Ostry is not clearly defined, and only in summer months can the highest point of the snowy ridge, resembling a pyramid, be identified. The following glaciers are identified on the Ostry and Plosky Tolbachik massifs:

• Number: 11
• Total area: 26.1 km² The approach to the western and north-eastern routes follows the same path and diverges at the depression of the north-west ridge. Those heading to the western ridge must descend into the valley.

Approach to the Climbing Site

From the shepherds' hut, built on a wide clearing at a height of 800 m, follow the riverbed to the Neizvestny stream, and then along the stream until the end of the bushes. After that, a stream flowing into it from the right will be encountered. Turn into this stream. About 600 meters later, it cuts into the right ridge along the ascent route and forms a narrow gorge, which should be followed. Continue along the gorge for 1.5–2 hours. It leads to a plateau. Cross the plateau in a southerly direction until it is divided by a stream flowing south. Follow the stream and it will lead to the left slope, transitioning into a destroyed rocky ridge running in a north-westerly direction. Time required to approach the ridge: 4–5 hours from the shepherds' hut. Elevation at this point: 1500 m.

Route Description by Sections

MARUPYI ON VIA FERRATA OSTINNY MOABAUUK September 25

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Vlk. Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. 3682 m through Plos­kiy from the north, 2B cat. dif., (A. Be­re­zin, 1965)

From the base camp, located in the valley of the Stu­de­na­ya river, the approach to the beginning of the ridge of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik along alpine meadows takes 2 hours. At the foot of the ridge begins a large and medium scree, along them along the glacier - the exit to the beginning of the ascent (see photo). The ridge is a wide lava flow, covered with firn and ice, passed simultaneously in rope teams. Before reaching the summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano, the slope steepness increases to 35°, and there are many open crevasses (Bergschrunds); all crevasses are overcome by snow bridges. The summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik is a snow-firn plateau three kilometers long, with a huge crater in the western part, 1800 m by 1500 m in diameter. Along the plateau in the western direction - the exit to the edge of the crater. The ascent time for this section of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano is 5-6 hours. Crossing the plateau in the direction of the snowy ridge, one and a half kilometers long, with a steepness of 35-40°, leads to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. Passing the ridge is done simultaneously in rope teams. The ascent from Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik takes 1.5-2 hours. The summit is a snow dome, from which icefalls descend to the north and south. The total ascent time is 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit:

• along the ascent route;
• it is possible to descend directly from the summit along the 2B route - the northern slope.