Tibetan Plateau
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру ЮВ гребня
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Aklangam (6978/7004 m) in the Kongur Tagh range along the SW edge of the SE ridge, category 4B.
11.3.8
| 1. ROUTE PASSPORT | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Region | Kongur Muztagh Range | |
| 2 | Valley | Karakul Lake | |
| 3 | Number of section according to the classification table | ||
| 1999 year | |||
| 4 | Name of the peak | Aklangam | |
| 5 | Name of the route | via SW edge of SE ridge | |
| 6 | Route difficulty assessment | 4B cat. diff. | First ascent |
Route Description: В стене
Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route on the east face of Grosvenor (6376 m) in Eastern Tibet.
Report on the First Ascent of Grosvenor Peak via the East Face, Presumably Category 6A 2011 Russian Mountaineering Championship in the High-Altitude Technical Class.
- Region — Eastern Tibet, Sichuan Province, China
- Grosvenor Peak (Grosvenor), 6376 m, ascent via the East Face
- Proposed category: 6A, first ascent
- Route type: Combined
- Route elevation gain: 1080 m Route length: 1735 m
- Length of 2nd category sections — 700 m
- 4th category — 190 m
Route Description: С гребню С склона
Description of the ascent to the summit of Kongur (7719 m) via the northwest slope and north ridge, made in 2004 by a team led by Valery Shamalo.
11.3.6
Ascent Certificate
- Region: Eastern Pamir, China, Karayalak gorge, section 11.3 of the classification table.
- Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: via NW slope and N ridge.
- Proposed - 6A category of complexity, first ascent, 2nd overall ascent.
- Route type: ice-snow.
- Route elevation gain: approx. 4000 m. Route length: approx. 11500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity: 17 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: С гребню С склона
Ascent of Kongur (7719 m) via North Ridge, category 6A, snow and ice route with an altitude difference of 4000 m.
11.3. 6А
ASCENT REPORT
- Eastern Pamir, Kongurmustag Range (Kashgar)
- Peak name: Kongur, 7719 m, route: North Ridge
- Proposed category: 6A, second ascent
- Route type: ice-snow
- Height difference: 4000 m Route length: 6200 m Section length:
- Category 5: 1200 m
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route "Moskovsky Ekspress" 6A category of complexity on Kongur Tagh (7719 m) in 2004.
Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004
EURO-ASIAN ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING ASSOCIATION
11.3.6A
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report
on the ascent of Kongur Tagh (7719 m) at the Open XIII CIS Championship (EAMA) in Alpinism 2004 Team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Vyacheslav V. Odokhovsky Expedition Leader: Yuri V. Khokhlov
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of Kongur (7719) via the counterfort C-3 on the wall, category 6A route in "Alpine" style.
Report
On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)
Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)
1. Climbing Passport
- Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
- Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
- Category of difficulty — 6A.
Route Description: В гребню с л. Ю Чимген
Report on the first ascent by a Russian climbing team via the east ridge of Peak Kyzylsel (6,525 m) in the Kongur Muztagh range in 2000.
1. Climbing Passport
- Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Kunlun). Gorge: Chimgan. Section number according to the 1999 classification table No. 11.3
- Name of the summit: Pik Kyzylsel Route name: via the eastern ridge from the South Chimgan Glacier.
- Proposed — 5A category of difficulty
- Route type: Ice and snow
- Height difference of the route: 1685 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4712 m. Section length:
- 5th cat. diff. – 2 m
Route Description: с запада
Ascent of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) via the West Ridge, grade 5A, made by a Russian team in 1997.
Passport
- Class: High-altitude technical
- Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
- Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
- Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
- Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
- Used pitons, 6 ice screws
- Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
- Overnights:
- 1st in tents on a rocky platform
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the ascent via an alpinist route of the 5A category of difficulty via the northwestern ridge of the Mutztag Ata peak (Kunlun Mountains, China) in 2004.
Ascent Passport
- Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
- Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
- Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route character: snow-ice
- Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
- Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route:
Route Description: Ю гребню
Ascent description of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) summit via the southern ridge in 2005, complexity category 5B, snow and ice route.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
- Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge.
- Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type: ice and snow.
- Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m.
Route length: approximately 3200 m.
Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m.
Average slope:
- main part of the route – approximately 45°,