USSR Alpine Federation Donetsk Regional Alpine Section

Report

of the Donetsk Alpinad participants on the traverse of the peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine – peak Engels approximately 5–6 category of difficulty with the first ascent of the western wall of peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine, carried out for the 1967 Ukrainian SSR alpine championship in the traverse class. Donetsk, 1967

1. Geographical location and sporting characteristics

The area of peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Alpinists began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishgar glacier), and the third highest peak – peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). A high (over 6000 m) ridge from peak Leningrad State University to peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zughvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the wall's bend) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility from any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR alpine championship, this area has become very popular and will remain a pilgrimage site for many alpine groups for a long time.

REPORT

on the CS "Zenit" championship in alpinism 1972 on the traverse "Peak 40 let LKSM Ukrainy (6318 m) — Peak F. Engels (6510 m)" of the team from Dnepropetrovsk regional council of DSO "Zenit" (in the class of traverses) Dnepropetrovsk 1972

5. Route Description

August 8. The group left the base camp (4200 m) at 9:00. Ascended by the moraine of the Kish-ty-Dzherob glacier, then through slushy snow on the right side of the glacier to the ridge (5200 m). Two relatively flat snow platforms were trampled and the group spent the night there. August 9. Departure at 9:00. The weather was excellent. Ascended to the ridge at 5200 m in rope teams: VALIK—SEMENOV, NAZARENKO—KOZAK, SAMOYLENKO—GREBENKIN, PROTSENKO—SUSLOV. The rope teams remained unchanged thereafter. Movement was simultaneous; the snow was steep but not yet slushy up to the ridge. Descended from the ridge via a rappelled rope to the Zugvand glacier. Then ascended up the glacier. The slope was approximately 20°, but it was not very hot, and the snow began to slush, making it hard to move. Steps were alternately kicked. By 16:00, they reached the start of the route. The key section ahead was the traverse of the Western wall of Peak 40 let LKSMU. They set up a camp, had a snack. At 17:00, the rope team VALIK—SUSLOV went to reconnoiter the start of the route. The route begins with negotiating a bergschrund and exiting onto ice under the marble belt. The ice slope was 30–35° steep and 200 m long. There was a thin layer of slushy snow on the ice, making it difficult to move in crampons. The available daylight was used to process the ice section. The rope team VALIK—SUSLOV, without backpacks and with three 80-meter ropes, used ice screws for protection and fixed ropes up to the rocky outcrop under the marble belt. By 20:00, the team returned to the tents on the Zugvand glacier.

Protocol № 339 dated 12.09.1971 5B first ascent VT-6 111 Report of the team from the Novosibirsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the ascent of Peak "40th Anniversary of LKSМУ"

Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

APPENDIX №2 Description of the first ascent route to Peak Vasiliev D. (G. Yazovskikh, 1967) Pamir. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Description of the first ascent to Peak D. E. Vasiliev (6100 m). 4A category of difficulty via a combined route from the south. The first ascent was made by a group from the expedition of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 19, 1967. Leader: G. Yazovskikh. The description was compiled by:

• G. Yazovskikh
• B. K. Potapkin
• K. P. Veselov Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation. 1967.

Contents

1. Introduction.

I. Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Vychuk-Dara valley.
3. Peak — "5200" peak via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 5B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1360 m;
   • height difference — 1200 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 666 m; including 6th category — 82 m;

PN 521 № 1 of 23.11.82 5B/" Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Vydvyadzh valley
3. Peak "5200", via the North-West wall through the "finger" and along the North ridge.
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with V–VI category of difficulty — 782 m.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4