Central Asia

Mountain range3,552,051.21 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent via the northwest wall of Peak Kommunizma, description of the 6A category route through the wall and edge, details of the passage and key difficulties.

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Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the classic route and its key features.

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Ascent to P6510M, technically challenging and beautiful, located in the massif of Kangshung peak in the Himalayas of Nepal.

P6510M

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Ascent of the 6B category route on the northern wall of Pik Engels in the Pamir Mountains, achieved by the team consisting of O. Grigoryev, B. Diyarov, V. Bukreyev, and Kh. Balmagambetov in 1991.

Passport

  1. Class — high-altitude technical.
  2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
  3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
  4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
  5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness:
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The ascent of Peak Engels (6510 m) via the north wall from the Piabon gorge in 1974 by a team of the Armed Forces.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir 3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley 4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS — Route length — 2470 m, including:

  • main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
  • overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions) Height difference — (6510–4360 m)
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A guide to the ascent route to the summit of Konin (6357 m), a detailed guide for climbers with information on the technical level, terrain, and climbing features.

Konin Tyy Aar

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Ascent record of Peak Engels (6510 m) via the North-East wall, category 6B, climbed by the SCA IT MIA team in 1991.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class: High-altitude technical.
  2. Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
  3. Peak Engels via Central col, NE ridge (Chunovkine's variant), 6510 m
  4. 6B difficulty category.
  5. Elevation gain: 2200 m, length: 3300 m. Length of sections with 6 - 5 complexity category: 1500 m. Average steepness: rock wall — 86°, ice wall — 55°, summit ridge — 45°. Number of pitons installed on the route: 12. Previously installed pitons used: 42.
  6. Team's moving time: 105 h 11 min.
  7. Overnights: 1st — sitting on a rock ledge
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Ascent to Mount Everest via the South Col, route description, key points, and features.

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Report on the first ascent of the 5B category route to Peak 6300 via the western edge in 1964.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 5A first ascent Protocol No. 287 21.1.69 N. Snegirev collection 32. passed TADJIK COUNCIL OF THE SPARTAK VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY 108 (South-Western Pamir)

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak 6300 via the western edge by the team from the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society 6318 Peak Engels 60 Peak Komosomola Ukrainy Peak Tajikistan 10?

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Ascent description of Peak Engels via the eastern wall with a detailed analysis of the route and team actions.

  1. Climbing category is altitude-technical.
  2. Climbing area — South-West Pamir, Kyshty-Dzherob gorge.
  3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: peak Engels. South summit 6318 m East wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category 6B.
  5. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference 1318 m Walls 1170 m Average steepness 80° Length of complex sections (5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m.
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