Ascent Record
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunku Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai Valley.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — (3) Akademik Korolev Peak, 2900 m, via the Southwest Ridge from Udachny Pass
- Anticipated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 495 m, average slope — 50°
- Pitons used for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 1, bolted — —
No manufactured pitons were used.
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Number of climbing hours:
- from the base camp in Zuun-Khandagai Valley to Udachny Pass — 3 h
- from the couloir to the start of the rock route — 2 h 30 min
- from Udachny Pass to the saddle between the "Tooth" and the summit wall — 3 h
- wall section of the route — 4 h 30 min
- from the start of the ridge to the summit — 30 min
- descent from the summit to the base camp — 4 h 30 min
Total time — 18 h.
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Number of nights and their characteristics:
Nights can be spent on snow under the route and on the route when descending into the cirque between Angarsk Peak and Akademik Korolev Peak. The route was completed without overnight stays.
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Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their sports qualification: Melentyev Vasily Ignatyevich — 1st sports category — leader, Akhtyrchenko Galina Vasilyevna — CCM — participant, Vasilyev Serafim Ivanovich — 1st sports category — participant, Nikitin Anatoly Alekseyevich — 1st sports category — participant
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Team coach: Naumov Alexander Fedorovich — MS
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Date of departure and ascent — May 6, 1978
General view of the ridge section near Akademik Korolev Peak
Schematic map of the ascent area.
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route
| Date | Designation | Average slope in degrees | Length in meters | Terrain characteristics | Difficulty | Condition | Rock Belay | Ice Belay |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 06.05.1978 г. | R0–R1 | 30–40 | 160 | couloir, snow | 2 | freshly fallen snow | — | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R1–R2 | 50–55 | 120 | couloir, ice-rock | 3 | ice-firn | 3 | 1 |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R2–R3 | 50 | 40 | snow-covered rocks | 3 | loose rocks | 2 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R3–R4 | 40 | 30 | rocks-ice | 4 | monolith, ice | 2 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R4–R5 | 10 | 40 | ridge | 2 | rocks | — | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R5–R6 | 65 | 40 | chimney | 4 | monolith | 3 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R6–R7 | 65 | 15 | slope | 3 | snow-covered rocks | 1 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R7–R8 | — | 20 | saddle | 2 | snow | — | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R8–R9 | 45 | 80 | wall | 4 | snow-covered rocks | 5 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R9–R10 | 70 | 25 | wall | 5 | rocks, monolith | 3 | — |
| 06.05.1978 г. | R10–R11 | — | 40 | ridge | 2–2 | rocks, snow, cornices | — | — |
It snowed throughout the ascent. Wind.
General view of Akademik Korolev Peak from Zuun-Khandagai Valley