Video guide to Balykin Route (cat. 3B, rock climbing) on Pik Boks by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Kuzmenko route ("Kuzma", 5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekay by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the Schwab route (5A, rock) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.

Logistics

How to Get There

By Private Vehicle

As of May 2025, entry to the national park is closed to vehicles with internal combustion engines. Entry for electric vehicles remains open and costs 800 som. There is a parking lot at the top, costing 50 som for an unlimited time.

By Taxi

You need to get to the entrance to the national park: https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=19/42.655741/74.495202&layers=P. However, taxi drivers are not very fond of going there, so some minor difficulties may arise. The cost per car is around 600-800 som from the center of Bishkek.

By Public Transport

In May 2025, a free bus was launched. It starts from T. Usubaliev Square (often referred to as the old central square of Bishkek, near monuments and administrative buildings in the center) — a landmark in the city center.

Transport Inside the National Park

If you're not using a private vehicle, you need to pay 200 som per person to enter the national park. The number of days spent in the park is unlimited. Payment can be made in cash, by card, or with national QR transfers. Buses run around the clock from the entrance of the national park to the end of the road inside the park. The interval between buses is approximately every 10 minutes during the day and every 30-40 minutes at night.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.

Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau. Continue:

• Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
• Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone,

PASSPORT

1. Category — rock.
2. Caucasus, Aksaut gorge.
3. Marukh-kaya peak via the N slope and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 3A cat. diff. (combined), first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 650 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–40°.
6. Pits were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — 8.
8. Overnight stops — I (on Marukhkay pass).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak (height, name) - Marukh-Kaya, 3700 m, northeast wall. 4. Proposed category of complexity - 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 700 m; average steepness - 60°; length of sections - 55 m, 5-6 pitches. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creation of I.T.O. rock - 22 ice - bolts -

Fig. 3

2. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B)

From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the

Fig. 3

1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)

From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and