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SSummitMateSSummitMateDescription of the 5B category route to the top of Айлама via III bastion of the South wall, Sh. Margiani's combined route.
Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72): 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope. Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion. Then turn left and up: 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall, then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.
SSummitMateDescription of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of [Ailama](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ailama) via the North wall, which includes ice and rock sections with high complexity and danger of avalanches and rockfalls.
Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further: Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty 50 m along a steep ice-and-snow slope to a site
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and tactical features.
Fig. 15.
SSummitMateDescription of the route "Aylama via the II bastion of the South wall" (5B cat.), combined, with a detailed analysis of key sections and technical details.
Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72): 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund; after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion; from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent made by the team of the All-Union School of Instructors to the summit of **Aylama** via the center of the North face in 1983, a 5B category difficulty route.
Climbing Passport Snow and ice class. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Aidam (4537 m) via the southern counterfort and wall, including technical details and complexity categories.
Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp. The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.
SSummitMate**Ascent of the Georgian Alpine Club team to the summit of Ai-Lama via the southern wall in 1963, route description, and technical difficulty of the climb.**
ASCENT ON AILAMA VIA THE SOUTH FACE Report of the combined team of climbers from the A. Japaridze Georgian Alpine Club, Tbilisi, 1965 THE AILAMA MASSIF FROM THE SOUTH. Introduction The Ailama massif stretches in a latitudinal direction. To the west, Ailama is adjacent to the peaks of Nuamkuam and the Bezengi Wall, separated from Ailama by a low, heavily dissected ridge with numerous gendarmes and deep gaps. The Main Caucasian Range runs south from Ailama to the peak of Tsurungal and further to the Ardon River gorge, where the Digor chain continues.
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical features.
Fig. 15.
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to the summit of Айлама via the south-eastern ridge, a combined route of 5B category of complexity, time to complete 16-24 hours.
Ailama via Southeast Ridge (combination route, E. Abalakov, cat.5B, fig. 5, 15, 16). From Tsurungalskaya saddle of the Main Caucasus Range (point 65, 63): 250–300 m upwards over rocks of medium difficulty below the first rock turret of Ailama Southeast Ridge; 200–220 m upwards over rocks of medium-above difficulty and difficult rocks, corners, couloirs to the turret's shoulder; 50–60 m along a narrow ledge on the left from the shoulder; 120 m upwards over snowcovered, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the couloir to the snow col behind the I turret.
