- Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19).
To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides).
Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours.
From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:
- Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
- Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty
- 50 m along a steep ice-and-snow slope to a site
On the site — a bivouac. From the previous bivouac — 8–12 hours.
From the bivouac 50 m up along a difficult wall. Further:
- Traverse to the right hanging rocks
- Ascend 200–250 m to the right along snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty
- Continue along an ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops (“live” stones) to under the right side of the Upper triangular belt
- Pass under the wall of the belt 30–40 m to the left along the border of ice and rocks
- Ascend along rocks of medium difficulty 30–40 m up-to-the-left to a steep ice-and-snow shelf
- Move along the shelf 50–60 m up-to-the-right to the right edge of the Upper rocky belt
From here:
- Pass 70–80 m up along a steep ice-and-snow couloir to under an ice overhang
- Traverse the overhang from the left
- Exit along an ice wall onto its ice-and-snow cushion and along it approach under the ice overhang
- Ascend along a crevice — chimney 50–60 m to the overhang
Further:
- Along a steep snow loose slope exit to the Western summit plateau
- From the plateau ascend to the summit of Ailama
From the bivouac on the wall — 10–16 hours. The whole route, excluding the summit cap, is exposed to ice falls!