Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Ay-Petri Eastern via the Eastern Part of the Wall on the Route "Prazdnik Neposlushaniya" 6A Category of Complexity by the Team from Mukhalatka Settlement from 14:00 on March 14, 2020, to 17:00 on March 15, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full Names, Sports Ranks of Participants	Vlasenko Alexey Sergeevich – no rank, Umnov Anton Sergeevich – no rank, Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich – Candidate for Master of Sports

Ai-Petri (western summit). 4A cat.

The route goes to the left of the main couloir separating the western summit from the central massif. Along the inner corner formed by two ledges on the wall, traverse right under an overhanging rock, bypassing it along a narrow vertical slit. After that, inclined platforms begin. The further path diverges:

• The first one goes up steep rocks along the right edge of a narrow couloir turning into a chimney.
• The second one goes along the wall and traverses left into the couloir. Then go another 25 m to a chimney, then to a pine tree, and then another 40 m to the second pine tree on the right. Here, on the saddle, there's a control cairn. From here, go right to a small chimney with a dry pine tree, and then, bypassing a large rock on the left, ascend to a platform and from it to a pine tree,

Ai-Petri (Western Peak) Category 3B

From the Host-Bash clearing (250–300 m), go upstream along the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the river, then ascend via a trail in the direction of the western peak of Ai-Petri, veering left and up. 25–30 m to the wall. The route starts four meters to the right of a well-defined chimney and proceeds 15 m up the wall at an angle of 75–85° to an overhanging boulder. Using the inner corner formed by the wall and this boulder, one can exit to a small ledge — a suitable spot for belaying. Next, move right and up through the inner corner, which after 10 m transitions into a chimney that narrows at the top. Exit through it onto a ledge where a pine tree grows

Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Ai-Petri Eastern via the eastern part of the wall on the route ("Zakonoobrazovatel's") 6A category of complexity by the team from Muhalatka for the period from 20.07.2019 to 20.07.2019.

I. Climbing Report Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Vlasenko Alexey Sergeevich — no rank, Umnov Anton Sergeevich — no rank, Lisin Alexander Alexandrovich — CMS
1.3	Full name of the coach	Kruglov Yuri Igorevich — MS

Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the route "Anomalous September"

The Eastern summit of Ai-Petri, clearly visible from the road, had been undeservedly forgotten for many years. Truly, a place for real adventures! And this year, it is again the center of attention for climbers. Three cool routes at once:

• route 1
• route 2
• route 3 Author: Sergey Pugachev

"Anomalous September", or nostalgia for the "Eyes".

Despite its loud name, the Eastern summit of Ai-Petri (1100 m) is perhaps the most unvisited mountain in Crimea. Most routes climbed back in the 70s had no second ascent. It seemed far away, there were no descriptions, and the rangers were harsh. However, here it is, the Eastern wall, clearly visible from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway. And from the cable car, it is simply magnificent. We (the Ukrainian national team) used to run along the Mishor trail, which goes to the yayla along the western edge of the wall, on winter training camps for many years. From the road, two red-yellow spots are visible on the left part of the wall. We called them "the Devil's Eyes". Despite the insistent recommendations of our coaches, no one dared to "give the devil his eyes". The wall was almost always snowy in winter. And it's high, and it's cold, and the next morning, you have to run along the trail in the snow again to the Main summit. (The elevation gain from the road to the Main summit is 1000 m. Note from someone who has run it many times).

Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the "New Moon" route

S. Cheterik on the R4–R5 section

First ascent impressions of "New Moon".

Early November, and it's warm outside — warm, you can even bask in the sun. But that's not the point. The purpose of the trip to Crimea was to make a first ascent on Ai-Petri. The organizer of all the ideas was Sergey Pugachev. For him, doing a first ascent is, in my opinion, a usual thing))), but for me it's a MEGa adventure! Five years ago, I dreamed of taking gear and climbing somewhere where no one had been before. The dream came true! The route starts to the left of the "grottos". To the right, under the beginning of the grottos, there's a good trail. Later, during the approach for processing, it's very beautiful to watch the sunrise from it. The beginning of the route is partially crumbling, some parts are climbed very well. I, of course, jumarred most of the route, but I got scared enough))). I want to climb it again, but this time all by myself, to feel what it was like for Sergey. So — see you on "New Moon". Chetyrnik Stanislav. Sergey Pugachev: I must say that "doing a first ascent" is not entirely an ordinary matter, although it has become familiar. There are two types of attitudes towards first ascents:

• do it for yourself; or do it faster, because it's a competition.

Ai-Petri (eastern peak) via south-eastern ridge, category 3B

The approaches to the route start from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway at the turnoff to Miskhor. The route begins along the ridge that goes left from the center of the eastern wall (moderate rocks, 40 m). The landmark is an inclined terrace located to the right of the ridge. From the ridge, transition to a series of vertical cliffs with a weakly expressed counterfort, the length of this section is 20 m. Then:

• traverse left,
• ascend 30 m along moderate rocks,
• follow an inclined ledge to a vertical chimney. The chimney leads to a ledge, from which difficult climbing up an inclined ledge leads to a rocky ridge where a yew tree grows. Continue towards a pine tree (difficult rocks, 15–20 m). From the pine tree, move upwards and to the right along the rocky ridge. The path along the ridge is easy. The length of this section is 80 m. Then, very difficult climbing up overhanging rocks leads to the pre-summit tower. The length of this section is 20 m. On the plateau, ascend along the ledges and join the trail leading to Miskhor. The route length is 580 m:

Al-Pe­tri Wall

пе­ря — 5Б

Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.

The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:

• vertical pitons
• horizontal pitons
• U-shaped pitons
• ice pitons R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf. 1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult. The next 40 meters are ascended:
• on tensioned limbs

"Feathers" — a non-technical description of the route to the top of Ai-Petri

Tourist Encyclopedia

Feathers (Ai-Petri)

The entire Ai-Petri massif is clearly visible from the highway if you stop a little before the point where the cable car cables pass over the road (when driving from Simeiz). It's even more convenient to drive to the middle station of the cable car, which is located above the highway. The cable car itself goes over the right part of the massif. In the left part of the wall:

• a huge cornice;
• a depression about a hundred meters high, which we conditionally called the "TV". The two parts of the wall are separated by a counterfort, which is a series of rock feathers stacked on top of each other. The height of each of them is 30–40 m. The route passes through them. From the middle station of the cable car, walk up the road, and after about 300 m, turn left onto the road leading to the barrier. From the barrier, go through the forest, veering left, towards the left part of the massif — approach the rocky ridge blocking the path to the wall. Bypass the ridge from the left. After it — up and to the right. All approaches to the wall are within range of stones falling from the couloir located above the wall. Pass under the wall as quickly as possible. Get dressed and rope up directly under the route.