Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the route "Anomalous September"

The Eastern summit of Ai-Petri, clearly visible from the road, had been undeservedly forgotten for many years. Truly, a place for real adventures! And this year, it is again the center of attention for climbers. Three cool routes at once:

• route 1
• route 2
• route 3

Author: Sergey Pugachev

"Anomalous September", or nostalgia for the "Eyes".

Despite its loud name, the Eastern summit of Ai-Petri (1100 m) is perhaps the most unvisited mountain in Crimea. Most routes climbed back in the 70s had no second ascent. It seemed far away, there were no descriptions, and the rangers were harsh.

However, here it is, the Eastern wall, clearly visible from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway. And from the cable car, it is simply magnificent.

We (the Ukrainian national team) used to run along the Mishor trail, which goes to the yayla along the western edge of the wall, on winter training camps for many years. From the road, two red-yellow spots are visible on the left part of the wall. We called them "the Devil's Eyes". Despite the insistent recommendations of our coaches, no one dared to "give the devil his eyes". The wall was almost always snowy in winter. And it's high, and it's cold, and the next morning, you have to run along the trail in the snow again to the Main summit. (The elevation gain from the road to the Main summit is 1000 m. Note from someone who has run it many times).

However, in the spring of 2006, I and my companions (Yuri Shilov from Krivoy Rog and Igor Dobrovolsky from Crimea) climbed the route, making the second ascent. The pleasure of discovering the unknown was hard to compare with anything (no description whatsoever).

• A hook hammered into a pine tree on the station;
• lead copers with rusty wires;
• a red stone from the route, which I asked Yuri to take for me as a souvenir, and which turned out to be a three-kilogram boulder on the summit (the rest was hidden under a layer of pine needles during my brief inspection).

Of course, I split it with a hammer on the summit. Now I keep this "fragment of the eye" - no, apparently, it's gone. Everything happened back then, and later, it was all good.

All these reasons prompted my partner and coach, Mikhail Zagirnyak, and me to search for a new route. We did just that in late September.

However, not only that. Our accommodation near one of the Massandra factories prompted us to dive into the history and magical world of smells and tastes. That is, we visited the tasting hall. We had the right to indulge. The occasion had already presented itself. Crimea is not just a place to swing a hammer and sweat under a backpack!

Now there is a description. Photos - there are. And the classifier has been adjusted.

As for the impressions from "September":

• · mushroom season;
• · golden autumn;
• · two red saffron milk caps under a large pine tree on a shelf;
• · And only the cold and excessively rainy weather made us worry a bit about the fate of the route. But. This is what determined the name of the route. Yes, and in general, since I focused on memories, and it prompted me to review the Eastern wall, I decided to provide photos of the "Eyes", which I took back with a film camera, and at the same time, to introduce you to the climbing rarities (almost artifacts) of that period.

Mikhail Zagirnyak about the ascent "Anomalous September"

Mikhail Zagirnyak

The summer season is over. In the rain and snow, we tried to climb Chegem via a new route, then Jailyk via Khatskevich.

A lot of struggle. We removed the notes from two control tours on Khatskevich's route. We reached the ridge. And then winter came in July.

Back - the same way we climbed. Fun - up. Sad - down. "There's no happiness in life". Home to everyday life.

Everyday life is one thing, but we want to go to the mountains. We are going to Crimea, although the forecasts are bad. There is no more technically challenging mountain in Crimea than Ai-Petri. We gather information about Ai-Petri Eastern bit by bit.

Nothing concrete in writing.

However, after walking under the wall for a long time, we stop at its section between "Glaz" (M. Gorbenko) and the counterfort of the Southern wall by V. Monogarov. It seems steep, but logical.

Working in the rain and wind is worse than in March.

I don't remember such a September in many years. Hence, "Anomalous September".

Only mushroom pickers don't care. They just keep calling out to each other, it seems like right under their feet.

The main landmark on the route is a large pine tree.

The more we climbed, the more I wondered when we would reach that large pine tree. Then it turned out that it was only halfway. But "no matter how long the rope twists, it will eventually end".

We crawled out of the forest to the top.

All the technical details are in the diagrams and description.

Good luck on the routes!

Ai-Petri Eastern

Ascent Passport

• 1. Ukraine, Crimea.
• 2. Rock climbing.
• 3. Climbing area - Southern coast of Crimea, ridge - Main (first) range of Crimean mountains.
• 4. Summit Ai-Petri Eastern (1100 m), route "Anomalous September".
• 5. Category: 6A.
• 6. Route characteristics:

elevation gain of the entire route - 520 m, elevation gain of the wall section - 270 m

route length - 331 m (categorized sections), (in addition, 50 m - 1st category on the approach; n/k and I category 210 m to the exit to the trail).

length of sections with V category - 103 m;

length of sections with VI category - 131 m;

average steepness of the wall section - 78°.

• 7. Hooks used (including for aid climbing):

rock hooks 65/20

• protection elements 20/15

• friends 15/10

• bolt hooks (including on stations) 13/(7)

• 8. Climbing hours - 25 hours, descent on the day of reaching the summit.
• 9. Number of bivouacs: none
• 10. Participants: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilyevich, Master of Sports, coach-methodologist I category;

Pugachev Sergey Alexandrovich, Master of Sports, coach-methodologist II category;

• 11. Team coach: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilyevich.
• 12. Reconnaissance: September 27-28, 2013.
• 13. Start of the route: September 29, 2013.

summit: September 29, 2013.

return: September 29, 2013.

• 14. Organization - Poltava regional federation of mountaineering and rock climbing. "Anomalous September", 6A, length 331 m R0–R1 (50 m, H/K, 500)

The start of the route is to the right of the couloir going up to the left. Above, above the middle of the wall, a large pine tree is visible.

Movement:

• Up to the next grassy shelf.
• Station under the next inclined slab.
• To the right - a small cave-grotto.

R1–R2 (15 m, II, 600), (30 m, I, 500)

From the station, up through simple rocks to an inclined monolithic slab. Station near small bushes is made on own equipment. Further direction is indicated by a small arrow pointing up to the left.

R2–R3 (38 m, V, 750), (F6A)

From the station, complex climbing on the slab with a subsequent move to the right with easily organized protection towards the pine tree. From it, up to a shelf under a vertical slab. Station on 2 bolt hooks.

R3–R4 (32 m, I, A1, 800)

From the station, movement to the left and up (bolt hook). After the bolt hook, aid climbing on a monolithic slab:

• anchors
• relief scuihooks

Moving in the direction of a large juniper. Station on a bolt hook (or on a juniper).

R4–R5

• (12 m, I+, A2, e - 1 pc, 1000)
• (24 m, I+, A2, e - 2 pcs, 900)

From the station, up through a destroyed vertical crack for 12 meters to a bolt hook. Then to the left and up along the wall towards a bolt hook. Further along an oblique inclined groove-crack with difficult protection (24 meters, anchors, relief scuihooks).

Station above a small juniper under a large niche (groove). On a bolt hook, blocked with own points located above and to the left in the direction of further movement.

R5–R6

• (22 m, I+, A2–A3, e-3 pcs, 850)
• (15 m, I, A1, 900)

From the station, up through a vertical crack under a groove. We go around it to the right. Bolt hook. Hole scuihooks. Then to the right and up along a subtle small inner corner to a bolt hook. Protection - anchors, nuts, stoppers. After - along a vertical, later overhanging slit under a small pine tree. Station above the pine tree on a bolt hook plus own equipment.

R6–R7 (IV, 15 m, (F5C), 700), (28 m, VI+, A2, 1000), (12 m, II, 600)

From R6, move to the left and up along an inclined crack under a vertical slab to a bolt hook. It is possible to organize an intermediate station.

After - in the direction of a large tree:

• movement to the right
• then along a simple crack in the direction of a destroyed chimney

The chimney is overhanging. Movement:

• to the right along the overhang
• to the flattening

Station on a large pine tree. Protection - nuts, cams, anchors.

R7–R8 (40 m, IV, 750)

After the station, climbing along a destroyed corner and small walls to a large grassy terrace.

R8–R9 (25 m, V, A1, 700)

After the station - to the left and up in the direction of a small pine tree. Station above on a large pine tree.

R9–R10 (40 m, V+, A1, (F6A), 800), (15 m, II)

From the station, to the left, climbing or penduluming under vertical slabs. After - along an oblique shelf to the right to a vertical chimney. It is desirable to organize an intermediate station. Then along a system of cracks and grassy shelves - to a large tree. Station on a large tree.

R10–R11 (10 m, I, 550), (200 m, Н/К, 450)

From the station, up to a large grassy-foreseeing forest terrain and further to the right and up, through the forest to a large scenic area. To the right, in 20 m - Mishor trail, by which descent to Yalta-Sevastopol highway is possible. 1-1.5 hours.

For the route, it is recommended:

• to use a double rope
• hammers for both participants
• hole rock hooks for diameter 8.0 mm
• relief rock hooks of medium sizes
• hooks: vertical, horizontal, anchor, U-shaped
• nuts of different sizes

It is possible to use rope extenders for hooks.

Stations are either on trees or on bolt hooks 45 mm long, diameter 10 mm. It is more convenient to supplement them with either anchors or hooks.

Recommendations for climbers:

A good long sixth category route that requires participants to perform a large amount of climbing work. Recommended for well-trained pairs who can use the entire arsenal of climbing equipment. Recommended for climbing during the period of long daylight hours.

From the route, it is possible to "exit" to the right from R7 to Monogarov's route, or to the left from R8 to "Glaz" route.img-4.jpeg"Anomalous September"