Ai-Petri (western summit). 4A cat.

The route goes to the left of the main couloir separating the western summit from the central massif. Along the inner corner formed by two ledges on the wall, traverse right under an overhanging rock, bypassing it along a narrow vertical slit. After that, inclined platforms begin.

The further path diverges:

  • The first one goes up steep rocks along the right edge of a narrow couloir turning into a chimney.
  • The second one goes along the wall and traverses left into the couloir.

Then go another 25 m to a chimney, then to a pine tree, and then another 40 m to the second pine tree on the right. Here, on the saddle, there's a control cairn. From here, go right to a small chimney with a dry pine tree, and then, bypassing a large rock on the left, ascend to a platform and from it to a pine tree, where the next control cairn is located. Then, along a small depression, ascend up and to the right to a bush, and then along the wall of the left side of the couloir. We pass the wall straight up (80 m). The section ends with a large ledge, on which a control cairn is installed.

The further path goes left along the ledge to the ridge leading to the base of the summit tower. The length of the ridge is 270 m.

  • The first separate gendarme on the ridge should be passed directly through the center.
  • The second one should be bypassed on the upper part from the left.

Ascend to the summit tower along a small inclined crack.

The route length is 650 m. The ascent takes 6 hours.

  • Difficult and very difficult rocks: 120 m.
  • Rocks of medium difficulty: 330 m.
  • Easy rocks: 200 m.

Sources

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