Ai-Petri (Western Peak) Category 3B

From the Host-Bash clearing (250–300 m), go upstream along the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the river, then ascend via a trail in the direction of the western peak of Ai-Petri, veering left and up. 25–30 m to the wall.

The route starts four meters to the right of a well-defined chimney and proceeds 15 m up the wall at an angle of 75–85° to an overhanging boulder. Using the inner corner formed by the wall and this boulder, one can exit to a small ledge — a suitable spot for belaying.

Next, move right and up through the inner corner, which after 10 m transitions into a chimney that narrows at the top. Exit through it onto a ledge where a pine tree grows — another convenient spot for belaying.

Climbing is very difficult; protection is via pitons. From the start of the route to the pine tree — 75 m.

From the pine tree, ascend a 3-meter wall on the right side of the chimney to reach a ridge with a slope of 60–70° and proceed along it in the direction of the upper pine tree. Before reaching it, veer left into a chimney toward a small deciduous tree. From the first pine tree to the deciduous tree — 18 m. Climbing is of medium difficulty.

From the tree, move up the chimney for 10–12 m to the next pine tree (slope 75–80°, climbing is of medium difficulty). There's a belay spot near the pine tree.

Next, move up a system of cracks for 30 m to a pine tree standing on the edge of a wide ledge. This is a control point (CP). The slope is 65–70°; climbing is of medium difficulty.

• Ascend through a system of cracks for 30 m
• Reach the pine tree on the edge of a wide ledge
• Pass the control point
• Proceed 12–15 m along a groove
• Exit onto a wide, rounded ridge

From the ridge, move toward the western peak, bypassing a separate standing gendarme on the right.

The distance from the start of the ridge to the first gendarme is 300 m; climbing is very easy.

From the gendarme:

• Head toward a buttress and, leaving it on the right, ascend a wide groove to reach a saddle between the buttress and the ridge (250 m).
• The slope and difficulty of the rock gradually increase.
• From the saddle, move right along a narrow, inclined ledge that transitions first into an inner corner and then into a 3-meter chimney, which leads to the buttress.
• Ascend the buttress to the right and up a narrow ledge that transitions into an inner corner, and, bypassing the gendarme, exit onto the ridge (60 m).

This is another control point.

Then:

• Organize belay through rock outcrops and move toward a juniper under the very summit.
• From the juniper, ascend a 2-meter wall to reach the western peak.

The route length is 770 m:

• difficult rock — 75 m,
• medium difficulty rock — 400 m,
• easy — 330 m.

The ascent takes 7 hours.