XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

E­ca­sa3 4456

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ASCENT CERTIFICATE for Peak XX let Oktyabrya via the NE edge

1. Class — technical
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge
3. XX let Oktyabrya, 4280 m, via the NE edge
4. 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 850 m, total length of the edge 1900 m, average steepness of the edge 40°
6. Pitons driven (for belaying only): rock — 3, bolt — 0, chocks — 0, ice — 31.
7. Climbing hours — 10
8. Overnight stops on the route — 1 (bivouac)
9. Team leader — Meshkov Igor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Re­gion of as­cent, ridge — Al­tai, Katunsky Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height, route of as­cent, na­ture of route: peak XX let Oktyabrya, 4167 m, via cen­tral coun­ter­fort from Ak-kem gla­cier, com­bined
4. Es­ti­mated dif­fi­culty cat­egory — (5a)
5. Main char­ac­ter­is­tics of route: height dif­fer­ence — 1267 m, length of 5th cat. dif­fi­culty sec­tions — 400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 57°
6. Pitons ham­mered: rock and stop­pers — 55, ice screws — 40, bol­lard pitons — none
7. Num­ber of trav­el hours — 10

XX-act OK-tropk

Section R0–R1. Crossing a not very high bergschrund along the southern snowy slope, in some places along rock shelves, exit to a snowy pad. Control tour. Section R1–R2 · 200 m along crumbling rocks and snowy slopes with a total steepness up to 50°. Section R2–R3 · The first gendarme is passed on the left along the wall 55°. Convenient crevices for running belay. Section R3–R4: Rocks of medium difficulty along the counterscarp ridge. Section R5–R6: Rocks filled with ice. In some places, snowy overhangs and cornices. In the upper part of the section, the second gendarme is passed on the left. Section R5–R6: Ice ridge with rock outcrops.

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Passport

I. Ice and Snow Climb Category 2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem gorge 3. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) via the left edge of the southeast wall of the central counterfort, combined route 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1167 m, total length - 1800 m. Length of the wall section - 1300 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 61° (3000-4050 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock 23, chocks 65, ice screws 27. 7. Climbing hours: 11, days - 1.

II. Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Altai, Katunsky ridge. 3. Peak 20 let Oktyabrya, 4188 m, via the right part of the E. wall. 4. Complexity category 6A, third ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1100 m, length of 6A–6B category sections — 300 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°/3100–4100 m. 6. Pitons hammered: