47. Koshtantau via the East Ridge - Category 5B (B. Garf, G. Vedennikov, G. Karavaev, and V. Kizel - August 22, 1948; Fig. 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the "Trud" bivouac in the Dumala gorge is described in route 18. From the "Trud" bivouac:

• Head to the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier, keeping to the left of the Northeast ridge of Koshtantau, and then to the second glacier icefall leading to the Ullu-Auz pass.
• Ascend the center of the second icefall or closer to the slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (ice avalanches are possible from the ridge!).
• At the top of the icefall, move left onto the snowy slope of the Koshtan-krest ridge (dangerous!), ascend it, then move right to reach the upper plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier.
• Follow the plateau, keeping to its left side, and ascend to the Ullu-Auz pass via snowy slopes. Time:
• From "Trud" bivouac to the upper plateau - 4-5 hours.
• To the pass - 5-6 hours.

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Koshtan-Tau via the Southwest Ridge wall, done in 1971 for the USSR Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Kuibyshev, 1971

Alpine Characteristics of the Region

The Bezengi region is the true center of the Central Caucasus. It is home to almost all of its five-thousanders (except for the extinct volcanoes Elbrus and Kazbek). The region has a very complex geological structure, was uplifted during the last Quaternary phases of the Alpine four-axle Fogenesis and is one of the most interesting regions in terms of alpinism. The intense glaciation from the north, the steepness of the rock walls from the south, and the vast extent of possible paths from any side attract groups of qualified climbers. The climate of this region is harsh, which is explained not only by the large elevation compared to other Caucasus regions but also by the location of the surrounding ridges. The unsettled weather here is the result of:

• the penetration of air flows from the south;
• abundant local evaporation;

| R26 | May 25 120° | 5145 | | R24 | 24 m | 4925 | | R23 | 23 m | 4925 | | R23 | 23 m | 4925 | | R21 | 24 m | 4925 | | R21 | 24 m | 4925 | | R20 | 23 m | 4925 | | R18 | May 23 | 4625 | | R16 | 20 | 4925 | | R15 | 20 | 4925 |

I. Group Composition

The ascent was made by a group from the LОС DSO "TRUD" with the following composition:

• 1. VASILYEV B.P. — team leader, 1st sports category
• 2. ROMANENKO N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• 3. SOLONNIKOV V.A. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. ZHITENEV F.N. — participant, 1st sports category
• 5. BERGILESSOV F.V. — participant, 1st sports category
• 6. MYASNIKOV V.S. — participant, 1st sports category This composition was planned according to the application, and during the preparation and execution of the ascent, it remained unchanged.

II. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route

80

Description of the Ascent Route to Koshtan-Tau Peak (5144 m) via the Central Counterfort of the North Face (First Ascent)

The ascent to Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) from the north via the central counterfort was accomplished between July 11 and 16, 1969, by a group from the LОС DSO TRUD, consisting of:

1. Nosov A.P., CMS - leader
2. Dreitser V.D., CMS - participant
3. Shymelis V.P., CMS - participant
4. Kosobokov L.I., 1st sports category - participant
5. Kuritsyn I.F., 1st sports category - participant Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range and is one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. From the north, several routes have been ascended and classified to the summit: 4B-5B category of difficulty. The path chosen by the group via the central counterfort of Koshtan-Tau's north face had long attracted the attention of Leningrad climbers, but in 1964, it was ascended by Czechoslovakian climbers, although they left no information about their ascent.

Koshtan, right spur of the North wall (Kolchin, 1989)

Initial bivouac on the fourth step of the Kundu-Mizhyrgi glacier under the N wall of Koshtan. Altitude 4000 m. The route starts with crossing the bergschrund under the rocky spur in the middle between the rocks of the Simonik route and the rocks of the Kalishevsky ridge. After the bergschrund, the ice slope goes straight up to the left of the rocky island (sect. R0–R1, 200 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty). Through the ice-covered rocks (sect. 1–2, 20 m, 70°, 5B grade of difficulty) the route crosses the rocky ridge and goes up to the right above the ridge along the ice slope (sect. 2–3, 150 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty) with crossing ridges, leading under a large

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Koshtan-tau via the right part of the north wall. Central Caucasus. Bezengi region. 1989.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Summit — Koshtan-tau, route — via the right part of the N wall. First ascent. Route is combined.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF FASIL ST. PETERSBURG CHAMPIONSHIP OF ST. PETERSBURG ON ALPINISM 2011 DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO Mt. KOSHTAN-TAU (5151 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTH FACE (A. SIMONIK) 6A cat. diff. THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team captain — Alexander Gukov, team head coach — Yuri Saratov Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, route classification section № 2.5
2. Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m, route name: via the North Face
3. Cat. diff.: 6A
4. Route type: combined

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE CLASS 2020

Report on the Ascent of Mt. Koshtan-Tau (5151 m) via the Left Part of the Central Buttress on the North Face

(Route by A. Simonik), 6A Category of Difficulty THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team Members:

• Viktor Mikhailovich Trikozov — team leader
• Ilya Nikolaevich Penyaev
• Tatiana Ivanovna Timoshenko — senior coach

Russian Alpine Championship

in the high-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Koshtantau via the left part of the Central Counterfort of the North wall (Simonik route) 6A category of complexity by the team from Rostov region from October 8 to 10, 2020

I. Ascent Passport