Koshtan-Tau (5145 m), North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the "3900" campsite, move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Kundryum-Mijirgi Glacier. The fourth stage of the icefall is climbed:

• near the rocks of the West Ridge of Kundryum-Mijirgi Peak (piton use required!)
• or through the center (crevasses!) of the icefall. Then, move left along the route with a slight ascent to reach the slopes of Ptitsa Peak. It is convenient to camp here (1.5–2 hours from the "3900" campsite). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of Yuzhnaya Ptitsa Peak, left of a vaguely defined couloir. From here:
• ascend slabs (60 m)
• ascend an inclined ledge up to the right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then, make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir, which after 40 m will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall rocks, on rocks and icy-snowy sections (piton use required!), ascend (120–140 m) to a rocky niche.

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36. Koshtantau via the North Counterforce — Cat. 4B (E. Mikhalskiy, E. Varteresevich, T. Lukaitis and E. Khrobak — August 20, 1964, V. Klimashin, Yu. Zhemchuzhnikov, E. Karchevskiy, A. Klopova, E. Nikonov and V. Shataev — June 29, 1965, Fig. II). The route from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug crag is described in route 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third step of the icefall
• Move up and to the right along the glacier towards the base of the Western ridge of the Kunduum-Mizhyrgi peak
• Pass the fourth step of the icefall 10–50 m to the right of the ridge
• Bypass individual crevasses in the upper part of the icefall to the right
• Exit left onto the upper plateau of the glacier
• Move up the plateau towards the left side of the North counterforce of Koshtantau
• Ascend 120 m up the snowy slope

Climbing Passport

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier gorge. Section number according to KMGV: 2.5
• Peak: Koshtantau 5151 m, via the Southwest slope.
• Difficulty category: 4B, 3rd ascent *.
• Route type: ice and snow.
• Height difference: approximately 1400 m.
• Route length: approximately 2 km, including 50 m of ice sections with a steepness of 50–55°, 500 m with a steepness of 40–45°; 750 m of snow and ice sections with a steepness of 30–40°.
• Number of pitons used (during ascent): ice screws - 39.
• Number of climbing hours to the summit - 16, reaching the summit on the second day of ascent (11:00), descent via the ascent route - 11 hours.
• Number of bivouacs - 2 (1 on the ascent route and 1 on the descent, at the same location).

Dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the Communist Party of Ukraine

Report on the Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

Kiev Regional Council DSO "Avangard"

Table 1

Composition of the Assault Group

2. Traverse of Koshtan-Tau Massif

On August 2, the group led by Master of Sports of the USSR Fomenko Ya. A. returned from the northern ridge of Koshtan-Tau, while another group led by Master of Sports Ovcharov V. V., having made a supply drop of equipment and food under the wall of Koshtan-Tau, returned to base camp No. 4. Ovcharov's group did not process the wall due to lack of visibility; the wall was shrouded in fog. On August 3, Fomenko Ya. A. and Kashin I. A. reconnoitered the lower part of the wall.

August 8 August 6 August 2

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

4577 m October 11, 1962 4262 m 4550 m October 11, 1962 ▲2 3850 m October 10, 1962

$ 1 $

43. Koshtantau via the Southwest Ridge — Cat. 5B (I. Galustov, A. Korchagin; K. Sizov, I. Smirnov, N. Shalaev, and V. Yakushkin — July 27, 1955; Fig. 13). From the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges, ascend via a poorly-defined trail on the left bank of the Dykhsu River to the Green Glade below the Dykhsu Glacier. From the fork — 3.5–4 hr. Further:

• From the glade, ascend via the left-bank moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier.
• After 500–600 m, cross onto the glacier.
• Via the central moraine of the Dykhsu Glacier, reach the confluence with the