Koshtan, right spur of the North wall (Kolchin, 1989)
Initial bivouac on the fourth step of the Kundu-Mizhyrgi glacier under the N wall of Koshtan. Altitude 4000 m.
The route starts with crossing the bergschrund under the rocky spur in the middle between the rocks of the Simonik route and the rocks of the Kalishevsky ridge. After the bergschrund, the ice slope goes straight up to the left of the rocky island (sect. R0–R1, 200 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty).
Through the ice-covered rocks (sect. 1–2, 20 m, 70°, 5B grade of difficulty) the route crosses the rocky ridge and goes up to the right above the ridge along the ice slope (sect. 2–3, 150 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty) with crossing ridges, leading under a large rocky bastion. The bastion from point 3 can be passed directly, but the first ascenders partially bypassed it through a couloir on the right with flowstone, pressing against the rocks of the bastion (sect. 3–4, 70 m, 70°, 6th grade of difficulty) and along rocky ledges (sect. 4–5, 40 m, 60°, 5th grade of difficulty) they reached the ridge of the bastion.
A simple, non-obvious snow-covered ridge (sect. 5–6, 50 m, 45°, 3rd grade of difficulty) turns into an ice ridge (sect. 6–7, 30°, 3rd grade of difficulty).
On the ridge, within 2 hours of work, a full platform for a tent can be hacked out. Overnight stay.
Along the ridge, the approach is under a rocky belt, which is crossed up to the right (sect. 7–8, ice-covered rocks, 60 m, 60°, 6th grade of difficulty). Going straight up through a non-obvious rocky couloir to pass the belt is dangerous.
At this point, the wall part of the route ends. The height is approximately 4500 m. Further, along the ice slope up and slightly to the left, until exiting onto the ice ridge, above its rocky part (sect. 8–9, 250 m, 30°, 3rd grade of difficulty). Here, the route merges with all other routes on the N wall of Koshtan.
Further, along the snowy slope (200 m, 2–3 grade of difficulty) to the snowy plateau and then along the snow-ice slope between the ridges of rocks (200 m, 2nd grade of difficulty) to the summit.
Descent along the NE ridge, 4B grade of difficulty.