ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Technical climbing category
2. Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
3. Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
5. Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
6. Total pitons used:

   Piton type	Rock	Chocks	Ice screws	Bolts
   	118	69	34	-

53. Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:

• Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
• Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
• From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
• Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
• Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
• Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.

To the Judging Committee

Central Council of Physical Education

And Sports

Report

on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with ascent via the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team. Team composition: Captain — Candidate Master of Sports Mal'tsev V.F. and coach Members:

• Candidate Master of Sports Bakulin A.A.

Russian Alpine Championship

in the high-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Koshtantau via the left part of the Central Counterfort of the North wall (Simonik route) 6A category of complexity by the team from Rostov region from October 8 to 10, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the team members	Rybalchenko Dmitry Andreyevich, Master of Sports; Shipilov Vitaly Viktorovich, Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coaches	Pyatnitsin Alexander Alekseyevich, Spiridonov Alexander Semyonovich

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE CLASS 2020

Report on the Ascent of Mt. Koshtan-Tau (5151 m) via the Left Part of the Central Buttress on the North Face

(Route by A. Simonik), 6A Category of Difficulty THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team Members:

• Viktor Mikhailovich Trikozov — team leader
• Ilya Nikolaevich Penyaev
• Tatiana Ivanovna Timoshenko — senior coach

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF FASIL ST. PETERSBURG CHAMPIONSHIP OF ST. PETERSBURG ON ALPINISM 2011 DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO Mt. KOSHTAN-TAU (5151 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTH FACE (A. SIMONIK) 6A cat. diff. THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team captain — Alexander Gukov, team head coach — Yuri Saratov Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, route classification section № 2.5
2. Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m, route name: via the North Face
3. Cat. diff.: 6A
4. Route type: combined

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Koshtan-tau via the right part of the north wall. Central Caucasus. Bezengi region. 1989.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Summit — Koshtan-tau, route — via the right part of the N wall. First ascent. Route is combined.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.

Koshtan, right spur of the North wall (Kolchin, 1989)

Initial bivouac on the fourth step of the Kundu-Mizhyrgi glacier under the N wall of Koshtan. Altitude 4000 m. The route starts with crossing the bergschrund under the rocky spur in the middle between the rocks of the Simonik route and the rocks of the Kalishevsky ridge. After the bergschrund, the ice slope goes straight up to the left of the rocky island (sect. R0–R1, 200 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty). Through the ice-covered rocks (sect. 1–2, 20 m, 70°, 5B grade of difficulty) the route crosses the rocky ridge and goes up to the right above the ridge along the ice slope (sect. 2–3, 150 m, 50°, 5th grade of difficulty) with crossing ridges, leading under a large

80

Description of the Ascent Route to Koshtan-Tau Peak (5144 m) via the Central Counterfort of the North Face (First Ascent)

The ascent to Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) from the north via the central counterfort was accomplished between July 11 and 16, 1969, by a group from the LОС DSO TRUD, consisting of:

1. Nosov A.P., CMS - leader
2. Dreitser V.D., CMS - participant
3. Shymelis V.P., CMS - participant
4. Kosobokov L.I., 1st sports category - participant
5. Kuritsyn I.F., 1st sports category - participant Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range and is one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. From the north, several routes have been ascended and classified to the summit: 4B-5B category of difficulty. The path chosen by the group via the central counterfort of Koshtan-Tau's north face had long attracted the attention of Leningrad climbers, but in 1964, it was ascended by Czechoslovakian climbers, although they left no information about their ascent.

I. Group Composition

The ascent was made by a group from the LОС DSO "TRUD" with the following composition:

• 1. VASILYEV B.P. — team leader, 1st sports category
• 2. ROMANENKO N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• 3. SOLONNIKOV V.A. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. ZHITENEV F.N. — participant, 1st sports category
• 5. BERGILESSOV F.V. — participant, 1st sports category
• 6. MYASNIKOV V.S. — participant, 1st sports category This composition was planned according to the application, and during the preparation and execution of the ascent, it remained unchanged.

II. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route