Коштан Малый
Peak4,492 m
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateReport on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with the ascent along the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team in 1971.
To the Judging Committee
Central Council of Physical Education
And Sports
Report
on the traverse of the North massif from Koshtantau peak to Dykhtau peak with ascent via the northern wall of Koshtantau by the "Dzhailyk" team. Team composition: Captain — Candidate Master of Sports Mal'tsev V.F. and coach Members:
- Candidate Master of Sports Bakulin A.A.
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Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing Peak Tikhonov - Koshtantau via the North Counterfort and West Ridge, category 5A, 8-9 hours from the initial bivouac and 6-8 hours from the bivouac on the saddle.
- Traversing Pik Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort - Category 5A (E. Abalakov and V. Miklyashevsky - August 25-29, 1938; Figs. 10, II, 13, 17). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to Pik Tikhonov via the Northern Counterfort is described in route 40. From Pik Tikhonov, descend via simple, crumbling rocks and a snowy slope to the saddle on the Eastern Ridge. Set up a bivouac on the saddle. From the initial bivouac - 8-9 hours. From the bivouac:
- Ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the first gendarme on the Western Ridge of Koshtantau.
- Traverse or circumvent the second and third gendarmes along the ridge or via ledges and slopes on their right side, reaching the saddle below the fourth gendarme.
- From the saddle, ascend a 60-meter ridge and a 5-meter chimney to reach the ledges.
- Traverse the ledges to the right and upwards to reach the Southern Counterfort of the fourth gendarme.
- Ascend the counterfort, bypassing a rocky "finger" on the left via ledges, to reach the gendarme and descend to the Western Ridge. The fourth gendarme can be circumvented on the right:
- Descend 10 meters down the wall to the right while traversing it.
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Route Description: Ю стене, траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of Peak Tikhonov - Koshtantau with ascent to Peak Tikhonov via the South Face by a new route of category 5B difficulty.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical climbing category
- Central Caucasus, Krumkol gorge
- Traverse of Tikhonov Peak — Koshtantau with ascent to Tikhonov Peak via the South Face
- Proposed 5B category, first ascent of Tikhonov Peak South Face
- Total elevation gain: 1595 m, total distance: 2310 m, including wall section: 1070 m elevation gain, 1255 m distance. Total distance of 5–6 category sections: 870 m, including 680 m on the wall section, of which 120 m are category 6. Average steepness of the wall section: 60°
- Total pitons used:
Piton type Rock Chocks Ice screws Bolts 118 69 34 -
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