Report on the Ascent of Mt. Koshtan-Tau (5151 m) via the Left Part of the Central Buttress on the North Face

(Route by A. Simonik), 6A Category of Difficulty

THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG

Team Members:

Climbing Passport

Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, section of peak No.2.5
Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m
Name of the route: via the left part of the central buttress on the North face (A. Simonik)
Category of difficulty: 6A
Nature of the route: combined
Height difference of the route: 1151 m
Length of the route: 1500 m

Length of sections:

Average steepness: main part of the route — 70°, entire route — 60°.
Number of pitons left on the route: total — 0; including bolt pitons — 0.
Pitons used on the route: stationary bolt pitons — 0, including for ITO — 0; removable bolt pitons — 0, including for ITO — 0. Rock pitons (including anchor pitons) — 12, including for ITO — 3; camalots — 45, including for ITO — 2; chocks — 0; ice screws — 120.
Team's total climbing hours to the summit: 22 h 30 min

Participants: Ilya Nikolaevich Penyaev, Master of Sports, Alpine Club "Gornik"

Reached the summit: 15:45, October 23, 2020. Descent from the summit: 11:00, October 24, 2020. Return to Base Camp: 19:00, October 24, 2020.

Date	Cloud Cover/Visibility	Precipitation	t° day/night	Sections Completed	Bivouac Location
22.10.	Variable cloudiness (unlimited visibility)	Snow started after 18:00, heavy snow after 19:00	–6/–8°С	R0–R13	R13
23.10.	Variable cloudiness (unlimited visibility). Visibility 100–130 m after 15:00	No precipitation, visibility at the summit 10–15 m, strong wind	–5/–10°С	R13–R26	On the descent ridge, after the first rappel

General photo of the route

The route can be divided into four main sections:

R0–R2 — after crossing the bergschrund, an ice wall 150 m long leads to the main buttress of the route. Protection on ice screws.
Section R3–R12 — a pronounced buttress on the North face. Throughout its length, the sections are relatively uniform in difficulty, consisting of rocks covered in ice and snow. Protection elements: ice screws, camalots, anchors. Clearing and finding cracks takes a significant amount of time.

Key sections: R6–R8, R11–R13 — predominantly mixed climbing with transitions to ITO and rock climbing.

R13–R22 — beginning of the second day of ascent after a noticeably red rock in the center of the buttress. Ice predominates, rocks are bypassed on the left via rocky sections.
R23–R26 — gradual flattening, transition from rocks to a snowy ridge leading first to a plateau below the summit tower (possibility of a good bivouac), then via a snowy ascent — to the summit.

The route was climbed in October, resulting in short daylight hours and negative daytime temperatures.

State of the terrain:

No good bivouac sites were found along the main part of the wall by the team.

The wall part of the route was climbed using a simultaneous climbing technique.

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Rock, Anchor Pitons	Chocks and Friends	Ice Screws	Bolt Pitons	Section	Length	Average Steepness, °	Difficulty
—	—	15	—	R1	150 m	70°	V
2	—	—	6	R2	45 m	65°	V
1	3	—	6	R3	50 m	65°	V
2	2	—	5	R4	50 m	70°	V+
3	3	—	7	R5	40 m	70°	V
1	5	—	3	R6	45 m	75°	VI
4	4	—	2	R7	50 m	75°	VI+
1	5	—	2	R8	40 m	70°	V
3	1	—	4	R9	50 m	80°	VIA1
4	3	—	1	R10	30 m	75°	V+
2	3	—	4	R11	20 m	85°	VIA2
3	3	—	5	R12	30 m	75°	VIA1
2	3	—	4	R13	30 m	70°	V
4	3	—	4	R14	40 m	75°	VI
1	3	—	4	R15	45 m	65°	V
3	3	—	3	R16	50 m	70°	V
1	4	—	—	R17	10 m	75°	VI
1	2	—	7	R18	40 m	70°	V
2	6	—	8	R19	150 m	60°	V
—	—	—	6	R20	45 m	65°	IV+
—	—	10	—	R21	300 m	40°	IV
—	3	—	5	R22	100 m	55°	IV
—	—	—	—	R23	200 m	30°	—
—	1	—	3	R25	30 m	50°	III
—	—	—	—	R26	50 m	30°	—