Dalar

up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North

Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak

The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route)
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900)
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/–
7. Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2
8. Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass.
9. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category

Dalar via NE wall, cat. 5B

I. Brief Geographical Description

The Dalar peak, with an elevation of 3981 meters above sea level, is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge, southwest of the Elbrus peak (Gvandra area, Kichkinokol arch).

II. Sporting Characteristics of the Route and Its Exploration

Dalar is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The slightly northward-leaning rocky pyramid has long attracted the attention of mountaineers. The northeast wall, rising to almost 4000 meters, seemed particularly challenging yet interesting. The sporty exploration of the walls began in 1956 when a group led by N.M. Semenov first traversed the NE wall up to the base of the tower and then deviated left from the route onto the relatively simple eastern ridge. In 1962, a group from the "Trud" sports society, led by V.V. Stepanov, repeated this path (up to the tower) and then straightened it, deviating from the original route in the last upper part (ascending directly up the tower to the summit). See photo #1. In 1964, a group of Spartakovites led by V.D. Kavunenko followed Stepanov's path. Tactical Plan and Route Description to Dalar Peak via the Northeast Wall, Cat. 5B (Combined) Photo #1

Ascent Passport:

1. Ascent class: technical
2. West Caucasus, Uzunkol. 3rd ascent of Dalar (3979 m) via the northeastern ridge, V. Stepanov's route (1962)
3. Route category: 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1000 m

• Route length: 1410 m, including 775 m of 5th category difficulty and 60 m of 6th category difficulty
• Average route slope: 68°

6. Pitons left on the route: 1 закладка (chock)

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship. Category — High-Altitude Technical 2024

Report on the Ascent to Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Northeast Ridge (V. Stepanov Route, 1962), 5B Category of Difficulty, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, "OGK" association. Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak Dalar, 3979 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north-eastern wall of the bastion, first ascent, proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Route elevation gain — 1430 m, route length — 1740 m, average slope — 68°, bastion wall elevation gain — 760 m, bastion wall length — 780 m, average slope — 80°. section lengths
   • category 5 — 800 m
   • category 6 — 320 m

TO THE MAIN JUDICIAL COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeastern wall with an exit to the summit tower via the northern edge, as entered in the 1969 USSR Alpine Championship by the team from the Leningrad Mountain Sports Committee.

Team captain and ascent leader — B. KORABLIN

Leningrad, 1969 Northeastern wall of Dalar peak. Due to various reasons, STEPANOV V.V. and CHERNOSLIVIN Yu.I. were unable to travel to the Caucasus this year, and therefore they did not join the assault group. KORSHUNOV D.M. could not be replaced at the time the team started the ascent (he was working as an instructor), and VELIKANOV V.P. was included in the main team.

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.