Ascent Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the north-eastern wall of the bastion (Korablin's route)
4. Proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 910 m, of which 490 m is the wall section; total route length is 1330 m, of which 540 m is the wall section. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 280 m 6th category of difficulty — 180 m
6. Average steepness of the wall section — 68°

Dalar

via the north wall of the bastion with exit to the summit along the eastern edge Team of MGS "SPARTAK" Coach and head MS USSR Kavunenko V.D.

Reconnaissance of the wall

The first acquaintance with the wall took place through photographs from different sides and detailed consultations. However, this allowed only a general impression to be formed. Therefore, one of the very important tasks was a detailed study of the wall. The first reconnaissance exit to the wall took place on June 15, 1964. The wall of the bastion is composed of gray granites, with an average steepness of 75°, and the wall's length is about 500 m. The first observations showed:

• Passing the wall directly along the corner would require a lot of piton work (150–200 m) without a combination with free climbing.
• A few tens of meters to the east (40–60 m), a logical exit was noted along a crack going vertically upwards to the upper part of the bastion, where a combination of free climbing with the need to use artificial support points is possible. From the upper part of the bastion to the eastern ridge of the pre-summit tower of Dalar leads a single snow-ice ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
2. Name of the peak: Dalar via the left part of the N wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of complexity (Snesarev — Shopin combination)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 950 m. Route length — 1200 m. Length of sections:
   • 5th cat. diff. – 415 m
   • 6th cat. diff. – 280 m

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE VOLGA AND URAL FEDERAL DISTRICTS IN ALPINISM TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DALAR (3988 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE OF THE EASTERN SHOULDER, CATEGORY 5B COMPLEXITY (POROKHNI YU.I. ROUTE) BY THE TEAM FROM SAMARA REGION AND PERM TERRITORY FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 16 TO 17, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Zankina Daria Viktorovna, 1st sports rank

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of coach, sports rank	O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh"

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |

Ascent Logbook

1. Technical Climbing Category.
2. Climbing Area: Caucasus, Kichkinekol Valley.
3. Route: Dalar — Zamok, traverse along the Northern wall of the bastion (Warburton).
4. Difficulty Category: 6B category.
5. Height Difference: 1030 m.
   • Bastion height difference – 500 m.
   • Route length – over 3 km.
   • Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 665 m.
   • Length of sections with 6th category difficulty – 155 m.

Dalar Peak — 3979 m

Ascent from the south — Cat. 4A difficulty (Description as you move towards the summit) The path from the camp to Dalar Pass — see the description of the Cat. 3B route. From Dalar Pass, along the snowy slope to the left, bypassing the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar and the counterforts of Bolshoy Dalar, to the snowy isthmus between the wall of the II counterfort (on the right) and the "sheep's foreheads" (on the left). Ascend up the snow and, at the end of the isthmus, turn right onto smoothed rocks and exit onto the shoulder of the II counterfort. This is a bivouac site. First control point. From Dalar Pass — 2 hours 30 minutes. From the bivouac, to the right of the characteristic wall "camel", exit onto the ledges to a 10-meter wall. Go straight through the wall (with pitons!) onto the scree and ascend up and to the right onto a snowy slope with a slope of up to 30°. Traverse it, avoiding rocky outcrops, and, to the right of a large boulder, exit onto broken rocks and continue ascending to the saddle of the main eastern ridge of the summit tower. From the bivouac — 2 hours.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Dalar via Northwest ridge, peak Shokoladny, combined, cat. 4B

Route description:

From the bivouac, traverse the plateau to reach the foot of peak Shokoladny. Ascend the snow and scree slopes, transitioning to broken rocks in the upper section, to reach the peak (category 2A difficulty). The ascent from the bivouac takes approximately 1.5 hours. From the peak's summit, descend steep rocks to the left and downwards, circumventing the first drop of the ridge via chimneys and internal corners. From the second drop of the ridge, perform a rappel to a narrow saddle adjacent to the "Palets" gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, then rappel leftwards to a ledge and follow it to regain the ridge. Subsequently, descend 25 meters down steep rocks and perform another rappel down an overhanging wall. The broken rocks lead to a saddle between peak Shokoladny and Dalar. Bivouac sites are available on the left, beneath the overhangs. The descent from the peak's summit takes around 2 hours. From the saddle, traverse rightwards along ledges that cut through Dalar's western wall, eventually leading to the main ridge beneath the summit tower. The ledges vary in width and have a general inclination to the right. From R8, a narrow cleft ascends upwards, culminating in a ledge beneath a couloir with a waterfall. Ascend via the couloir-chimney and a series of ledges (R10), overcoming a gendarme on the ridge "head-on," to reach a snowy and icy ascent leading to the junction of the north-eastern and north-western walls of the summit tower. From R13 (end of the ascent), a series of ledges traverse along the wall to R16 (avoid the edge of the ledges due to loose rocks!). From the upper ledge, ascend a narrow crevice to a vertical wall (R17–R19), then again via a crevice to reach a gap in the summit ridge (R21).