Ascent Passport:

1. Ascent class: technical
2. West Caucasus, Uzunkol.

3rd ascent of Dalar (3979 m) via the northeastern ridge, V. Stepanov's route (1962)

3. Route category: 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1000 m

• Route length: 1410 m, including 775 m of 5th category difficulty and 60 m of 6th category difficulty
• Average route slope: 68°

6. Pitons left on the route: 1 закладка (chock)

Pitons used on the route:

• Rock pitons: 5 (used during descent)
• Chocks (friends): 189
• Ice screws: 3
• Bolt pitons: 0

7. Total climbing hours to the summit: 24 hours
8. Overnights:

1 — on the route, comfortable, lying down 2 — on the route, comfortable, lying down 3 — during descent, comfortable, lying down

8. Team members:

Ziderer Oleg Vladimirovich — 1st sports category — team leader Zagrebina Anna Valerievna — 1st sports category — participant Malakhova Polina Sergeevna — 1st sports category — participant Kiselev Denis Mikhailovich — 2nd sports category — participant

9. Coaches: Lobachev E.A. (St. Petersburg), Dubovikov A.A. (St. Petersburg)
10. Departure from base: 17:00 on August 6, 2006

Summit: 17:00 on August 8, 2006. Descent to Dalar pass: 12:00 on August 9, 2006

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area and Objective

Dalar (3979 m) is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. It is located in the Gvandra region of the West Caucasus, within the Central Uplift of the Main Caucasian Range, 25 km southwest of Elbrus. The peaks in this region are primarily composed of strong granite-gneiss rocks with minimal cracks and smoothed microrelief.

The main peaks of the Gvandra region, including Kirpich (3800 m), Dalar (3979 m), Dvoinyashka (3830 m), Zamok (3930 m), and Trapezia (3743 m), typically have no easy ascent routes; their walls are among the most challenging in the Caucasus.

List of peaks:

• Kirpich (3800 m)
• Dalar (3979 m)
• Dvoinyashka (3830 m)
• Zamok (3930 m)
• Trapezia (3743 m)

The chain of peaks from Filter to Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny Peak, located in the upper reaches of the Kichkinekol valley, forms a boundary to the east, west, and south of the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier cirque, which gives rise to the eponymous river that flows into the Uzunkol River.

List of peaks:

• Filter
• Zamok
• Dvoinyashka
• Dalar
• Shokoladny Peak

The valley and river originating from the southern spurs of the peak are called "Dalar" by the Svans, linking the legend of the hunting goddess Dali to the supposed location of her throne ("ar" means throne). The Karachays call this peak Kichkinekol Suyru, meaning "Big sheer rock in Kichkinekol". Indeed, the northern slopes of the peak drop off with a kilometer-high sheer wall onto the glacier at its foot.

The first ascent of Dalar was made in 1937 by a group led by Kizel and Budanov via the 4A category route from the Dalar pass. Currently, 16 climbing routes have been established on the peak, including:

• Four routes with a difficulty category of 6A
• Six routes with a difficulty category of 5B

The routes on Dalar are considered classic examples of technically challenging mountaineering and have repeatedly taken prize places in USSR and Ukraine championships.

To date, the sporting potential of the peak is far from exhausted due to the extensive length of its northern, northern, northeastern, and eastern walls; Dalar continues to attract the attention of climbers seeking first ascents. The proximity of the Uzunkol alpine camp, relatively short approaches to the peak, and extensive development of the area create favorable conditions for ascents on Dalar.

However, even with the best wall route conditions, the approach is complicated by the heavily crevassed upper part of the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier.

The route can be approached from overnight camps in the green pocket of the left-bank (orographically) lateral moraine of the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier (3-3.5 hours walk from the Uzunkol camp). From the camps, it takes 2 hours to reach the route.

The climate of the ascent area is not significantly different from the Dombay region, although the proximity of Elbrus and the significant elevations of the valleys leave a mark on the weather, making it more severe and capricious. August is typically characterized by warm weather and moderate precipitation, making it the most favorable period for complex ascents. However, weather deterioration can occur rapidly and without visible signs, requiring preparation during the ascent.

Pre-Ascent Training

Throughout the year, the team conducted various sports activities, primarily:

• Cross-country skiing
• Running
• Rock climbing training

Training outings were made to the rocks of the Karelian Isthmus.

In April, training gatherings were held in Crimea, where routes of 4th category difficulty were ascended on the Forossky Kant, as well as rock climbing routes.

Immediately before the competition, participants made training and acclimatization ascents of 4-5 category difficulty on Peak Kirpich and the North Dolomites. For the chosen route, a full set of branded equipment was available.

Safety Measures

The team's release for the ascent was carried out in accordance with the "Rules...".

Team leader O. Ziderer had experience leading 5B category routes, while other participants had experience participating in 5A category routes. The releasing coach was Gennady Mikhailovich Kochan, USSR Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor.

Safe ascent was ensured by several factors:

• All team members were physically, technically, and psychologically prepared for the chosen route
• All had experience with ascents in the Caucasus
• Excellent material support
• Modern branded equipment and gear were available
• The group had a well-stocked first-aid kit
• Regular radio communication with the AUSB "Uzunkol" was maintained throughout the ascent

Team Tactical Actions

The team had a comprehensive route description. The route is ideal for ascent in unstable weather due to the presence of multiple sites for comfortable overnight stays.

The first team member to ascend, according to the tactical plan, was to be Ziderer O.

The team had 3 backpacks. The leader worked without a backpack.

The last team member's belay was carried out using two ropes.

Observation suggested that the ledges, presumed to be overnight stay sites, had snow. Therefore, water was not carried.

Two hot meals per day were planned, with food allocated at 500 g per person per day.

Ascent Scheme

Ascent description and route details by sections:

• The team departed from AUSB "Uzunkol" at 13:00 on August 6, 2006, after completing all formalities with the AUSB "Uzunkol" head, Ruslan Magomedov.
• The main reason for the late departure was concern that another team working on the same route (from Krasnodar) might not reach the summit before our approach and would throw rocks at us.
• After a 12-hour radio check with this team, we received permission to depart.

R0–R4

We reached the route at 17:00. The sun had set, and it had noticeably cooled.

We effortlessly overcame the "ram's foreheads" below the icefall. Above, the glacier posed no danger. In its center stood a huge ice mushroom, and immediately behind it was a deep crevasse with a single snow bridge on the right side.

The randkluft under the wall allowed us to approach the darkening rocks at the base of the route.

We reached an inclined scree ledge in the lower part of the route by dusk, overcoming the randkluft and a low ice wall (protected by ice screws).

Features of the ledge:

• Composed of loose rock
• Unreliable handholds that break off
• This complicates the search for reliable stations (belays on rare rock outcrops)

Practically in the dark, we approached a site ideal for an overnight stay.

Advantages of the site:

• A nearby waterfall solves the drinking water problem
• At 21:00, we set up our bivouac as planned.

R4–R6: After a hearty breakfast, we dismantled our bivouac and continued. The first three ropes involved zigzag traverses to avoid overhangs.

Belay:

• Using driven pitons left on the route by our predecessors
• Using thin chocks

R6–R10: Straight up, an internal angle formed by large, smooth blocks leads (many cracks; friends work well; many old pitons). This ends at a "gendarme," which we bypassed on the right via slabs and reached a ridge (not the ridge, but a counterfort — the ridge of the counterfort). A notch in the ridge has a bivouac site and a control cairn.

R10–R14: Up the ridge, avoiding rock overhangs on the right, we reached a ledge.

R14–R18. The walls become steeper, but the abundance of handholds and rock strength make climbing comfortable. Another ledge with snow remnants and many loose rocks. Above it, the walls become nearly vertical. Small cracks require thin chocks.

R18–R20 — Straight up toward the peak, an internal angle and chimney lead. Climbing requires special care due to frequently breaking handholds. At the top of the chimney, a bolted station is set up, from which it's 30 m to a wide scree ledge partially covered in snow. We established our bivouac here.

R20–R22 — In the morning, we traversed the ledge left, found another control cairn left by our predecessors from Krasnodar, and followed their tracks across a steep snowfield.

R23–R25

• Internal angle
• Small ledge; we followed it left
• Along an overhanging wall and another internal angle
• A ledge appears

R25–R27 — Further, difficult climbing on steep rocks with overhangs; we reached a ledge.

R27–R30 — Easy rocks, "ram's foreheads"; movement to the right. R30–R31 — Rock wall; climbing is difficult; following the description, we bypassed overhangs on the right.

R31–R33 — Chimney; climbing is challenging.

• The chimney is dry
• Old pitons are encountered

R34 — The chimney ends in a "mulda" (cirque); destroyed rocks; we ascended via slabs to a ledge.

R35–R37 — We moved toward a notch on the ridge, then via easy rocks, practically walking — to the summit.

Descent toward Georgia: 3 rappels to the first ledge, then traversing rocks to the right to rappel rings. 4 rappels to the next ledge. Overnight stay on "ram's foreheads".

In the morning, we dismantled our bivouac, traversed rocks left through a couloir to rappel rings, and made 3 more rappels to the glacier. Then:

• Right, bypassing the peak of Maly Dalar to the Dalar pass
• Descent from the pass to the glacier
• Overcame the bergschrund
• Descended to the moraine
• Further through the Myrd valley to AUSB "Uzunkol"

Equipment Table

The group descended to the camp at 15:00 on August 9, 1953. The ascent proceeded fully in accordance with the tactical plan, and the group did not violate the control time. The ascent debriefing took place (location). Those present at the debriefing included (names). During the debriefing, questions were asked about:

• Route difficulties
• Weather conditions
• Tactics for passing key sections of the route

Based on the debriefing results and the submitted notes from the control and summit cairns, the releasing coach decided to credit the 5B category ascent on the Dalar peak via the northeastern ridge to all participants.

St. Petersburg City Championship in Mountaineering

Report

on the ascent by the FASIL SPb team (a/c "Shturm") on Peak Dalar via the northeastern ridge "5B", (combined) (V. Stepanov's route, 1962)

St. Petersburg, 2006