Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus, Uzukol region.
3. Peak "Dalar", center of the northern wall of the bastion.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length - 1825 m (1935 m). Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 695 m. Average steepness of the main sections 85° (2900-3560 m): including sections with 6 category of difficulty - 415 m (2900-3080 m, 3110-3170 m, 3245-3270 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 87° (2900-3080 m, 3300-3350 m, 3420-3525 m); 90° (3110-3170 m); 92° (3245-3270 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :----: | :--: |

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the center of the bastion (Ivaschenko route 1982)
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Height difference: 939 m, of which 520 m is wall climbing; total route length is 1310 m, of which 550 m is wall climbing Section lengths:

• Category 5 – 250 m
• Category 6 – 210 m

6. Average steepness of the wall section — 71°

2012 Ukraine Championship

Rock Class Classification Commissions:

• FALS of Ukraine
• FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to v. Dalar (3979 m) along the center of the north-eastern wall of the bastion (proposed 6A cat. diff.), made by the team of the Poltava Regional Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., MS, instructor-methodologist II category. Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, MS

2012

GRAN­DI­OSE TRA­VE­RSE! 0A, 1976

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ROCK.
2. Ascent area — GVANDRINSKY REGION OF THE CAUCASUS.
3. Peak — DALAR, 3979 m, LEFT PART OF THE NORTH FACE.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 895 m, b) length of 5th category sections — 430 m, 6th category — 360 m, total — 1100 m.

71

1983 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Rock climbing category

Report

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3979 m): second ascent of Snesarev's route on the north face. Team of the Ukrainian Sports Committee. Leader: Turkevich M.M. Senior coach: Sivtsov B.G. Coach: Spesivtsev A.E. Addresses:

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge.
3. Peak "Dalar", via the northern wall, Snesarev's route.
4. Third ascent — Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 895 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections: Category 6 difficulty — 570 m. Average steepness of the route is 75°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 250
   • bolted — 5 (x)

Dalar Maly from Dalar Pass, rock, 2B

Route Description:

From Dalar Pass, go left along the ridge's ruined rocks, keeping to the right side, to the first ridge ascent. Climb 30 m to the left onto a wide ridge made of blocks and slabs. Along the 150-meter ridge, then along the wide ridge scree, overcoming the second ridge ascent, approach the first gendarme. Be cautious when bypassing R0–R4, especially if the slabs are covered with snow. Then reach the saddle, bypass the second gendarme and the "Per'ya" gendarme on the right; further, on the right, along the 10-meter wall of the "Shakhmatny kon'" gendarme (when transitioning from the ledge to the wall R12 — loose rocks!) ascend to the "Stolb" gendarme. Bypass "Stolb" along the inclined ledges on the right (water, loose rocks!). From the saddle behind "Stolb", along the ledges to the right of the ridge, reach the summit. From the bivouac on the pass to the summit — 4–6 hours. Descent — along the ascent path to the saddle before the first gendarme R5. From here, go left-down along the scree couloir and scree ledges to the base of the ridge from the southern side. Traverse the base of the ridge to reach Dalar Pass. From the summit — 2.5 hours.

• Departure time from bivouac — 6:00;
• if the descent couloir and subsequent ledges are heavily snow-covered, return to Dalar Pass along the ascent route. DALAR (view from the south)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Maly Dalar peak, 3500 m — via the southern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 50–55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 37 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. for creating RTO (Relay and Belay Point): 1 pc., 0, 0.
7. Number of travel hours: 7 hours.