DESCRIPTION

First Ascent of the Northeast Wall of Shait Peak

Team Composition:

1. Mogilevcev A.N. — Master of Sports, Deputy Captain
2. Potapov V.A. — Master of Sports, Coach
3. Esipov S.I. — Master of Sports, Participant
4. Kisel S.Ya. — Master of Sports, — «—»
5. Timoshin M.E. — Master of Sports, — «—»
6. Shilov Yu.D. — 1st Category, — «—» The ascent was made between August 9 and 15, 1964.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Pik Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E wall by Ovcharov's route (recognized route).
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 40 m, 3rd-4th difficulty category — 445 m, 5th difficulty category — 585 m, 6th difficulty category — 60 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 6, chocks — 110.
7. Number of climbing hours: 15
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their sports qualification:

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via the NE wall on Matovcharov's path (official route) 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 900 m Average slope 65°. Section lengths:

• Steep terrain — 535 m
• Steep terrain — 560 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via NW wall (by Mogilevcev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st category difficulty — 40 m
• 3rd category difficulty — 300 m
• 4th category difficulty — 375 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
2. Peak Shait (4916), via North-Eastern wall (Mogilevtsev's route)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route characteristic: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m; Route length: 1400 m Section lengths:
   • 5 – 251 m
   • 6 – 65 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: p. Shait, 4916 m, ascent via the NE wall: via Moiseevtsev's path (officially recognized)
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average steepness 65°; section lengths: 4th diff. cat. — 535 m, 5th diff. cat. — 560 m, 6th diff. cat. — 65 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 47, ice — 8, protection — 33;

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamiro-Alay, Alaysky Ridge 3. Peak, its height — Shait 4916 m. Ascent route via North-East wall: (following Mogilevtsev's path), official route. 4. Expected difficulty category: 5B category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67 degrees. Length of sections: 1 – 80 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 365 m, 5 – 320 m, 6 – 85 m. 6. Pitons driven:

• For belaying:
  • rock – 58
  • ice – –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m

Passport

I. Class: TECHNICAL 2. Region: PAMIR-ALAI, ALAISKY ridge 3. Peak: SHAIT (4916 m), via the Northeast face 4. Route complexity category: 6A 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 938 m, Average slope: 65°. Section lengths:

• 4th category complexity — 35 m
• 5th category complexity — 910 m
• 6th category complexity — 90 m