XXII Олимпиады

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
0

Description of a Category 5B climbing route to Peak 4500 m via the left buttress of the North face in the Alai Range, Pamir-Alai.

ASCENT LOG

XXXI USSR Alpine Championship

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Region of ascent, range: Pamir-Alai, Alai range.
  3. Peak, height, ascent route: Peak 4300 m, height approximately 4500 m, via the left counterfort of the North face.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Section lengths:
      • 5A — 120 m
      • 5B — 245 m
0
0

Ascent route to Peak XXII Olimpiady (4470 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall in Altai, categorized as 5-6 difficulty grade.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area, ridge - Archa-Kanysh gorge, Altai ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - peak XXII Olympiad, 4470 m, via the left part of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 750 m of which: eastern wall - 455 m length of sections - 550 m 5B-6B difficulty category

0
0

### Overview of the Ascent Route to Peak XXII Olympiad Detailed description of the route, including challenging sections on the wall and ridge.

ASCENT LOG 23

  1. Type of ascent: rock climbing
  2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge
  3. Peak, route: p. 4300, via the center of the Eastern wall (1st left)
  4. Difficulty category: 5B / 2nd ascent /
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Height difference: 750 m
0
0

Description of the ascent route along the eastern wall of the 4300 peak of the Alai Range with a difficulty level of 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. 4300, via the center of the eastern wall via the route of V. Grishchenko (2nd place at the XXXI USSR Alpine Championship, rock class) with exit to p. 4450 m
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness: wall — 80°, overall — 65° length of sections: 2nd difficulty — 120 m, 3rd difficulty — 800 m, 4th difficulty — 80 m, 5th difficulty — 425 m, 6th difficulty — 130 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying:
0
0

Report by the Ural Military District team on the ascent of Peak 4300 m via the center of the East Face in the Pamir-Alay in 1980, the third traverse of the route.

Report

Ural Military District team's ascent to Peak 4300 m via the center of the Eastern wall (3rd ascent of the route by the team from alpinist camp “Elbrus” — 2nd place in the 1980 USSR Championship) Team composition:

  • Kharitonov A.P. — CMS — team leader
  • Zadvoryev Yu.V. — CMS
  • Povolotsky V.Yu. — CMS
  • Tarkhov E.V. — 1st sports category Team coach — Master of Sports Mikhailov A.A. Pamir-Alay
0
0

Passport of the ascent to Pik XXII Olimpiady via the center of the East Face, characteristics of the route, technical difficulty, and details of the ascent by a team of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp in 1980.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Archа-Kanysh gorge (Pamir-Alay)
  3. Ascent route — Peak XXII Olympiad (4550 m) via the center of the Eastern wall
  4. Ascent characteristics: total altitude difference — 900 m, wall section difference — 450 m, average wall steepness — 85°, wall length — 510 m
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 130 pcs. (including for TAE — 11 pcs.), bolt — 15 pcs. (including for TAE — 9 pcs.), chocks — 107 pcs. (including for TAE — 15 pcs.)
  6. Time to reach the summit — 36.5 hours
  7. Time on the wall — 27 hours
0
0

Ascent via the center of the Eastern wall of peak LII / XXII Olympic Games (4560 m, Tsamvr Apai ridge) Cat. 6B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 235

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall.
  4. Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd)
  5. Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m
0
0

Ascent description of the "Shkhelda" alpine camp team to the peak "4300" via the center of the eastern wall in 1980, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Alay, northern spurs of the Alay ridge, 5.1.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak "4300", northern peak of XXII Olympiad, team route a/l "Shkhelda" through the center of the eastern wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B (3rd sports category).
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, wall section height difference — 450 m, average steepness — 85° (wall section),
0
0

Description of the ascent route to Peak 4300 via the right edge of the northern wall, difficulty category 5B, elevation gain 730 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. ASCENT CLASS ROCK
  2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE PAMIR-ALAI, ALAI RANGE
  3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE P. 4300 VIA THE RIGHT EDGE OF THE NORTH FACE
  4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY 5B
  5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS:
0
0