Ushba

Report on the traverse South Ushba — North Ushba, category 6A difficulty level, undertaken by the team from NRU MGSU in August-September 2023.

REPORT ON CROSSING THE TRAVERSE SOUTH USHBA – NORTH USHBA 6A category of complexity BY THE TEAM OF NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023 Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :---------------------------------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Prostakishin Dmitry Aleksandrovich |

Ascent to S. Ushba via NW wall, category of complexity 6A, followed by descent to l. Gul. Detailed description of the route, divided into 6 days.

Mt. Ushba 2000 m (C–D), via NW wall and descent to Gul lake («Kрест» / "Cross"), cat. 6A. 1st day — Hike to «Nemetskie nochevki» (German overnight camp) in Shkhelda gorge takes 4–6 hours. 2nd day — From «Nemetskie nochevki» through Ushba icefall: Ascend to Ushba pass and enter the upper part of Ushba glacier. Following its right edge, approach the NW counterfort of S. Ushba. Descend along the counterfort to the point where a glacier tongue "breaks through" it. To the left of it, on a rock shelf of Shkhelda slope of the counterfort, there is a convenient site. 3rd day — Descend to the glacier via inclined shelves and approach the I-st bergschrund. Cross the first bergschrund via a rope and then the second one. After overcoming the second bergschrund, reach the rocks of the left (in the direction of travel) side of a steep ice couloir continuing along the counterfort (NW edge), to the left of it. Further, either via the couloir or the rocks of the left side (120 m), bypassing difficult rocks via ice and vice versa. In the upper part, the left side of the couloir turns into a rocky ridge abutting the left side of the counterfort. Here, one should reach the ridge of the counterfort — this is the most technically challenging section. To reach the ridge, ascend the wall (40 m) to the right of a wide chimney filled with flowstone ice. Further movement along the ridge:

Ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the Pinnacle Wall, made by the "Dzhailik" team led by captain Khatskevich I.G.

I. Climbing category — technically challenging Climbing region — Central Caucasus Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 Number of travel hours — 109.5 Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit Ushba South via the center of the North-West wall.

Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion:

The ascent of a team of mountaineering instructors to South Ushba via the center of the western wall in 1971, technically challenging and highly categorized.

Passport 4. 1986 Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 ASCENT CLASS: ASCENT REGION: ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m) Characteristics of the ascent: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°

The USSR team in 1966 completed a new route up the East face of South Ushba, rated as Category 5B.

1966 Photo 1. Approach to the wall from the base camp. Sections R1–R3. The Ushba massif is well-known. It is located in a popular, well-studied mountaineering area. In the last decade, climbers have worked hard to develop the harsh Ushba walls, making a series of new top-class routes. However, the possibilities for interesting first ascents on Ushba are not yet exhausted. The team of the Armed Forces of the USSR declared and passed a route on the Eastern wall of South Ushba. This path attracted the attention of the army climbers back in 1959 during the ascent to the peak via the north-eastern wall. The route was studied carefully for a long time. This path is logical and the only one. Passing along the protruding part of the wall, it is sufficiently protected from rockfall. The presence of two belts of steeply inclined terraces on the wall allowed for planning convenient overnight stays in advance. The route can be conditionally divided into four major parts: three powerful steep rock climbs and the summit ridge. On the climbs of the wall, a large number of difficult sections were expected, predominantly: smooth overhangs;

Description of the ascent route to Ushba South 4710 m peak via the right part of the 103 wall, category of complexity 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1988.

Ascent Passport Technical class Central Caucasus Ushba South peak 4710 m via the right part of the 103 wall (Kustovsky's route 7) Category of difficulty — 5B Height difference — 1450 m, length — 2170 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the route — 56°. Average steepness of the main sections — 80° Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

Description of the ascent made by a team of climbers to the ChSHEA (South and North peaks) via the Kustovsky route of category 6B complexity in 1993.

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov Ascent Log CLASS — technical ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route) DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m DISTANCE — about 3000 m PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44

Ascent to the summit of Ushba (4710 m) via the right part of the NW wall along the Kustovsky Route, 6B category of difficulty, made by a team of 5 people in August 1993.

ASCENT DOCUMENT. Ascent category — technical. Ascent region — Central Caucasus. Object of ascent — Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall (Kustovsky route) 6B category of complexity. Height difference of the wall section — 580 m. Total height difference — 1460 m. Total route length — 1897.5 m, including sections of 5–6 category of complexity — 835.5 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°, including the wall section — 80°. Pitons hammered: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

Report on the ascent to the summit of Una Kinaba (4710 m) via the eastern part of the W-E Otten route, category 5B, in 1984 by the team from the Adyl-Su alpine camp.

m-t Kustovskogo pr 540 n 17 09.10.84. IV-th CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CAUCASIAN TERRITORIAL ADMINISTRATION MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS 1984 CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS Report On the ascent to Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the right part of the SW wall, category 5B, 3rd ascent of Kustovskiy's route from 1963 by a team of instructors from "Adyl-Su" alpine camp Ascent leader — Smirnov V.N.