Glacier du Géant

Glacier10.78 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent of Grand Capucin (3838 m) via W. Bonatti route on the West face, grade 6Б.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif
  3. Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face
  4. Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route
  5. Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,
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### Ascent Route to Gran Capucin Peak (3838m) via the East Face, difficulty category 5B-6A.

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998.

CERTIFICATE

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix).
  3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part.
  4. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification).
  5. Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.
  6. Driven pitons:
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Ascent description for the summit of Grand Capucin via *"Directe"* route (grade 6A) and first ascents of *"Russian Winter"* and *"Winter Voyage"* routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Passport

  1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
  2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
  3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
  4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
  5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
  7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.
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Description of the first ascent of the "Russian Winter" route on the East face of Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif, made by Russian climbers in February 1999.

Passport

  1. Winter category.
  2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
  3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
  4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |
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Report on the ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the NW slope, a category 2A climb, undertaken by the "Polytechnic" team on August 2, 2018.

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MONT BLANC DU TACUL VIA THE NW SLOPE "CLASSIC" 2A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK POLITEKHNIK UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF DUPLIAC A.K. August 2, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderDupliak A.K. 3rd sports rank
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Report on the ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the north-west slope, a category 2A climb, undertaken by the training department of the "Polytechnic" air club on August 8, 2018.

Report

on the ascent to Mont Blanc du Tacul via the northwest slope, category 2A, by the training group of the "Polytechnic" mountaineering club on August 8, 2018.

I. Ascent Report

№ п.п.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderAlekseev A.A., 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsLegkodukhova A.V., 3rd sports rank, Mesh M.V., no rank, Nesterov T.I., no rank, Purtova A.A., no rank, Teslenko K.V., no rank, Cherchashin M.V., 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the trainerMolodozhen V.A., Master of Sports
1.4Organization"Polytechnic" mountaineering club
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Report on the ascent made by the AK Polytechnic team to Mont Blanc du Tacul via the south-west ridge through Les Aiguilles du Diable, a 4B category route.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF MONT BLANC DU TACUL VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE THROUGH THE AIGUILLES DU DIABLE, CATEGORY 4B, BY THE TEAM OF AK POLITECHNIK FROM ST. PETERSBURG ON AUGUST 5, 2018

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

  1. General Information 1.1. Leader: Belyaev Evgeny Valerievich, 2nd sports category 1.2. Participants: * Vigursky Evgeny Sergeevich, 2nd sports category * Khromchenko Natalia, 2nd sports category 1.3. Coach: Molodozhen V.A., Master of Sports 1.4. Organization: AK Polytechnik
  2. Characteristics of the Climb Object
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