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  1. Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22).

From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main.

Ascent:

  • Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully
  • Ascend 70–80 m
  • Reach the South Ridge

Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it.

Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac img-1.jpeg

Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

Sources

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