- Dzhangitau Zapadnaya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Khazaradze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khalde” base camp, cross the Khalde Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangitau Zapadnaya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangitau Zapadnaya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.
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Route Description
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EurasiaWestern AsiaCaucasus MountainsGreater CaucasusЦентральний КавказCentral North CaucasusCentral North CaucasusBezengi
Route:Ю ребру- Vostochnaya Jangi5,034 m
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