Fig. 15.

73. Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope.
• Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion.
• Then turn left and up:
  • 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall,
  • then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.

79. Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:

• Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
• Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty

Fig. 15.

74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
• after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
• from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.

Climbing Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
3. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3

Description of the Ascent Route to the Summit of AYILAMA via the South Face

The summit of AYILAMA (4537 m) is located in the MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE between the peaks of NUAM-KUAM (4283 m) to the west and TSURUNGAL (4342 m) to the east. The lower, base part of the summit is composed of heavily weathered schist rocks. The upper part rises as inaccessible vertical bastions made of light gray granite. The grandiose South Face of AYILAMA towers directly above the "AYILAMA" alpine camp. The path from the "AYILAMA" alpine camp goes along a trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Koruldashi River, then the trail crosses to the left (orographic) bank and proceeds along an old moraine overgrown with forest. This moraine leads to a small glacier, covered with snow and rocks, under the South Face of AYILAMA. To the left lies the icefall of the Koruldashi Glacier. In the lower part of the face, three counterforts are clearly visible, separated by couloirs.

ASCENT ON AILAMA VIA THE SOUTH FACE

Report

of the combined team of climbers from the A. Japaridze Georgian Alpine Club, Tbilisi, 1965
THE AILAMA MASSIF FROM THE SOUTH.

Introduction

The Ailama massif stretches in a latitudinal direction. To the west, Ailama is adjacent to the peaks of Nuamkuam and the Bezengi Wall, separated from Ailama by a low, heavily dissected ridge with numerous gendarmes and deep gaps. The Main Caucasian Range runs south from Ailama to the peak of Tsurungal and further to the Ardon River gorge, where the Digor chain continues.

Fig. 15.

69. Ai­lama via South­east Ridge (com­bi­na­tion route, E. Abal­a­kov, cat.5B, fig. 5, 15, 16). From Tsurun­galskaya saddle of the Main Caucasus Range (point 65, 63):

• 250–300 m up­wards over rocks of medium dif­fi­cul­ty be­low the first rock tur­ret of Ai­lama South­east Ridge;
• 200–220 m up­wards over rocks of me­dium-above dif­fi­cul­ty and dif­fi­cult rocks, cor­n­ers, couloirs to the tur­ret's shoulder;
• 50–60 m along a nar­row ledge on the left from the shoulder;
• 120 m up­wards over snow­cov­ered, de­stroyed rocks of me­dium dif­fi­cul­ty of the couloir to the snow col be­hind the I tur­ret.