Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from
the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of
Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass
is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along
the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long
horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit.
Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long
rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit
under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks
of medium difficulty, ascent to the wall (key point of the route). Along the wall, traverse right,
then straight up the steep medium-difficulty rocks to the rocky chute (couloir).
Via the couloir, a difficult ascent to the rocky area (on the wall with piton belay!). From the area (without
backpacks), 30-40 m ascent along simple rocks of the ridge to the southern tower. From the tower, via a simple
rocky-snowy ridge, ascent to the summit of Gadyl. From the bivouac on the pass,
8-10 hours. On the area under the southern tower, a bivouac. Descent via the ascent route with
a rappel from the area to the ledges on the right side of the ridge. Along the ledges, traverse
40-50 m to the right, then descend via simple crumbly rocks to the snowpatch. From here,
move left and along the boundary of snow and rocks, exit left to the Eastern
ridge. From the area, it is possible to descend into a crumbly couloir and via it, 120-130 m
downwards. From the couloir, a rappel to the snowy slope and along the slope, holding to the rocks,
traverse left to the Eastern ridge. Further descent via the ascent route.
It is possible to descend to the plateau without reaching the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, via
the snowy slope. From the summit of Gadyl to the Jantugansky plateau, 5-6 hours.
Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people:
main rope - 2×30 m, accessory cordelette - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-7,
ice screws - 2-3, hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs,
tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the plateau, summit of
Lekzyr-Jantugansky, snowy sections of the horizontal Eastern ridge.
("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov).
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