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Route Description: В кф., траверс
### Description of the ascent route to Peak Sverdlova, complexity category 5A, with equipment recommendations and estimated ascent time.
The summit of Pik Sverdlova is a huge cornice hanging to the east; ridges branch off to the NE, SE, and SSE. On the northeastern part of the summit, there is a rocky outcrop where a bust of Ya. M. Sverdlov was installed and a cairn was built, with flags of the Russian Federation and Kyrgyzstan erected. Descent from the summit is possible via any of the three branching ridges. Our group descended via the ascent route. The route's difficulty is assessed by the group as category 5A. Ascent time calculation.
- Ascent from Lake 3800 m to the base camp on the ridge at 4800 m — 8 hours.
- Traversing the section from 4800 m to the summit at 5280 m — 8 hours.
- Traversing the section from the cave to the summit of Sverdlova — 7 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people:
- Tents — 2 pcs.
- Ropes 40 m × 4
- Ice screws — 10 pcs.
- Rock pitons — 10 pcs.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the route to Peak Germogenova (3343 m) along the 3rd ridge, complexity category 2B, with a detailed description of the path and approximate time calculation.
Peak GERMOGENOVA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ryzhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhantugan. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation:
- From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.
- Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours.
- Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours.
- Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours.
«Tianey»
Tactical climbing plan, time schedule, and route scheme according to the UIAA classification.
. Tactical plan of the ascent, breakdown by time, route sections, etc.,
UIAA scheme: