Object 18306040

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy via the Western wall (4A cat. dif.) by the Voronezh Region team on August 11, 2021

Report on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021 I. Climbing Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :-----------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Danilkova Ekaterina Borisovna, CMS | | 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Dmitrienko Evgeniy Vladimirovich, MS | | 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich | | 1.4 | Organization | VROO "Sports Alpine Federation" | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | | |

Report on the first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Dolomit Yuzhny Peak (3719 m) in the Kichkinekol gorge on August 6, 2021, complexity category 4B.

Report on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021 I. Climbing Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :---------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :--------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Dmitrienko Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS |

Account of the first ascent to the North summit of Dolomite (7710 m) via the western ridge, a route rated as category 36 difficulty, achieved in 1980.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Caucasus, Gvandra district, Kichkinekol gorge Peak, its height, ascent route: S. Dolomit, 3710 m, via the Western ridge Proposed difficulty category: approximately 3B cat. diff. Route characteristics: Height difference: 700 m Average steepness: 35° Length of section with 3B cat. diff.: 250 m Pitons driven:

Description of the M92 route to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the west wall, category 4A, rock climbing route.

From the col, descend three rock "steps" of a жандарм on the right, and the fourth one — on the left, to reach the snowy ridge, along which ascend to Dolomit Tsentral'nyy. From the Malyy peak — 3 hours. The further traverse follows route М86. Departure time from the bivouac — not later than 4 am; On the traverse section, it is practically possible to organize an overnight stay at any col; The route is completed within one daylight day. М92. Dolomit Severnyy — Yuzhnyy via the western wall ascent (route is rock, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severnyy is made

4A category route along the Dolomites ridge with an ascent to the South summit via the western wall and traverse of the Main summit.

M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent (climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route. From the summit: Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly. Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks. From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass. From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.

Description of the 4A category route to the Dolomites massif via the North and Central peaks to the South with details on passage and belay.

М92. Dolomit Severny - Yuzhny traverse with ascent via the western wall (rock route, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severny is done via the left variant of the М89 route. From R1, move left under the black wet slabs. Then right-upwards along the wall composed of individual blocks and internal corners (good placement for protection with nuts). At the end of the wall, a large boulder serves as a landmark. On the green ledge, protection is via a flake. Then, via an internal corner, another green ledge, and one more internal corner, ascend to a large talus ledge R8. The further ascent follows the М89 route. From the Northern summit, descend along the severely degraded ridge to the col towards the Central summit. The ascent to it is done from the left of the ridge, along the boundary between snow and rock, and via a steep snowy ascent. The further traverse to the Southern summit follows the М91 route. The section R14-R13 is traversed from the left along a rock flake and the boundary between snow and rock (good placement for large-sized nuts). The rocks here are wet, with water dripping, and in the mornings, there is ice. The descent from the Southern summit follows the М84 route.

Ascent of South Dolomite via the western wall (category 3B difficulty), route details, and recommendations for experienced groups.

Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

Report on the ascent to the summit Dolomit Tsentralny via the "Western Wall Edge" route, category 4B, in the Uzunkol area.

Report On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020. I. Climbing Report | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Semiletkin Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpclub SPbSU "BARS" | | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | |

Report on the first ascent of the "Mechta" route, category 5A, along the western edge of the Central Dolomit peak (3760m) in the Caucasus.

Report On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008 Contents Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

Description of the 4B category rock climbing route to the Dolomit Tsentralny peak via the western wall, including details of the ascent and recommendations.

M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face (rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.