M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent
(climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route.
From the summit:
- Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly.
- Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks.
- From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass.
- From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.
From Yuzhnaya (South) peak — 1 hour.
Descend back from the summit into the pass and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, ascend to a shoulder with a hanging rock. Then, via slabs, ledges, and degraded rocks of the ridge, bypassing gendarms R4–R6, reach a large pass between Dolomit Glavny and the gendarme "Pal'tsy" (Fingers).
Further:
- via slabs
- along a scree ledge under the lower edge of huge gray slabs
- via a scree couloir, bypassing Dolomit Glavny on the left
Ascend to a narrow saddle in the R10 ridge, from which a 200-meter snowy ridge leads to the Main summit.
From the summit, descend to the saddle via the ascent route.
From the saddle, bypassing a gendarme on the right via snow and a degraded ridge, descend along the wall to the snowy R11 saddle.
Bypassing gendarmes:
- The next gendarme — bypass on the left via a ledge.
- The following one — bypass on the left via a crack-split and ascend along a wide ridge to the summit of the ascent.
From the ascent summit, rappel down to the large snowy R14 saddle. To the rappel point, descend 2.5–3 meters down — to a ledge for two. The inclined slab on R13 gets flooded with water (ice formation!)