M91. Dolomit Yuzhny — Severny via the western wall ascent

(climbing route, 4A category of difficulty) The ascent to Dolomit Yuzhny via the western wall follows the M84 route.

From the summit:

  • Descend along the ridge towards Dolomit Maly.
  • Bypass a small gendarme standing on a saddle in the ridge along the boundary between snow and rocks.
  • From the saddle, move to a ledge on the left of the ridge and, bypassing the wall and a transverse ridge behind it, descend via a scree couloir (falling rocks!) and a short wall into a pass.
  • From here, follow a straightforward ridge to reach Dolomit Maly.

From Yuzhnaya (South) peak — 1 hour.

Descend back from the summit into the pass and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, ascend to a shoulder with a hanging rock. Then, via slabs, ledges, and degraded rocks of the ridge, bypassing gendarms R4–R6, reach a large pass between Dolomit Glavny and the gendarme "Pal'tsy" (Fingers).

Further:

  • via slabs
  • along a scree ledge under the lower edge of huge gray slabs
  • via a scree couloir, bypassing Dolomit Glavny on the left

Ascend to a narrow saddle in the R10 ridge, from which a 200-meter snowy ridge leads to the Main summit.

From the summit, descend to the saddle via the ascent route.

From the saddle, bypassing a gendarme on the right via snow and a degraded ridge, descend along the wall to the snowy R11 saddle.

Bypassing gendarmes:

  • The next gendarme — bypass on the left via a ledge.
  • The following one — bypass on the left via a crack-split and ascend along a wide ridge to the summit of the ascent.

From the ascent summit, rappel down to the large snowy R14 saddle. To the rappel point, descend 2.5–3 meters down — to a ledge for two. The inclined slab on R13 gets flooded with water (ice formation!)

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment