Route on the Left Buttress and Central Edge of the Eastern Wall of Sonuti
“The route is combined, category 4B difficulty.” The path from the KSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac at the Volginsky nochyovki.
From the Volginsky nochyovki, “depart at 3–4 am due to rockfall in the lower part of the route,” cross the snowy plateau of the Uilpatinsky glacier to the left and upwards towards the Left Buttress of the Eastern wall of Sonuti peak. To the left of the buttress, there are ice collapses at the top. From the plateau, after passing the bergschrund, ascend a steep snowy-ice slope “possible ice collapse” to the rocks of the Left Buttress.
From here, straight up through 120 meters of simple, heavily destroyed, snow-covered rocks. Then, ascend 150 m through steep, moderately difficult, destroyed rocks of the Left Buttress to the first rocky islands in the right ice-snow couloir descending from the saddle with a small lake on the Southwest ridge from under the wall of the South tower of Sonuti.
Further, traverse to the right “pitons for protection” through the ice-snow couloir “rockfall, avalanches,” then through moderately difficult rocks of the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Sonuti. After passing a platform, through monolithic rocks, approach the second steep ice couloir and traverse to the right and upwards through this couloir “possible rockfall” to the rocks on the left side of the Central Edge of the Eastern wall.
Through monolithic rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the left side of the Central Edge, ascend 150 m “pitons for protection” to a platform. From the Volginsky nochyovki, 6–8 hours. From the platform, 150 m through medium and above-medium difficulty rocks with numerous holds on the left side of the Central Edge “pitons for protection” upwards to a shoulder. From the shoulder, across a sharp snowy ridge, move left to the rocks on the right side of the Left Edge.
Through steep, heavily destroyed, simple and moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the Left Edge, exit onto a wide inclined shelf crossing the Eastern wall of the summit tower with a slight ascent to the right. Along the wide shelf, after passing a yellow corner “pitons for protection,” traverse 200 m to the right under the saddle between the summit towers.
From here, straight up through a wide, steep, and not clearly defined rocky couloir, then through a 30-meter wall to a platform on the left side of the saddle between the towers “pitons for protection.” Bivouac on the saddle. From the Volginsky nochyovki, 12–14 hours.
Further, ascend to the summit and descend along the Southwest ridge. The duration of the route is 3–4 days. The route is illogical and hazardous due to possible rockfall in the couloirs.