(combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak.

From the platforms, approach the Northwestern wall of Songuti peak via the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (beware of hidden crevasses). From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 150–200-meter snowslope to rocky outcrops in the direction of the saddle between the summit pinnacles of Songuti (avalanche risk, rock and piton belay).

Continue as follows: ascend snow-covered rocky outcrops of medium and above-medium difficulty, alternating with steep snowslopes (rockfall risk — piton belay) to the rocky ascent of the summit pinnacles.

From here, ascend a steep, diagonal snowslope of the couloir 200 m up and to the right (piton belay). Then, ascend snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the wall to the saddle between the pinnacles. Bivouac on the saddle platform. 10–14 hours from the initial bivouac. Continue with the ascent to Songuti peak.

Descent via the ascent route or down the Southwestern ridge with rappels.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment