Report on the Ascent to the Summit of "Pik Ostry" (4050 m) via the North Face

Route Category 5B

Region: Pamir, Western Murghab, Severny Tanymas ridge. Peak: "Pik Ostry" (4050 m). Route: via the north face, category 5B (first ascent). Leader: Ivanov A.A. (CMS, 1st sports category). Participants: Petrov S.V. (1st sports category), Sidorov I.N. (CMS). Departure: August 15, 2023, 9:00. Return: August 16, 2023, 17:30. Total Time: 32 h 30 min. Elevation Gain: 1000 m (from the base camp).

Route Description

Approach via the glacier R0–R1. Ascend the rocky section R1–R4 (category 3–4 complexity). Then, traverse the snow-ice slope R4–R5 (100 meters, up to 50 degrees steepness). Further, proceed via the mixed terrain R5–R6 (sections 5–6).

Technical Description

R0–R1: Glacier, straightforward approach. 1 h 30 min. R1–R2: Rocky section 3, 50 m. The "key" section is a chimney. Time: 2 h. R2–R3: Rocky section 4, 60 m. With "large" ledges. Time: 2–3 h. R3–R4: Mixed section 4, 70 m. 1.5–2 hours. R4–R5: Snow-ice slope, 2. 100 m, up to 50 degrees. 1 h. R5–R6: Mixed section. "Difficulty" 5–6. 80 meters. 3–4 hours.

Remarks

All "participants" coped well with the task. Air temperature was −5 °C (±2 degrees). 2023. Descent took approximately 1.5–2 hours.

Conclusion

The route was successfully completed.