Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Makhar pass)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Yubileynyy (3567 m) via the Western wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 475 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 245 m average steepness — 67°
6. Pitons hammered:

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

4. Ascent to the Ertzog peak via the eastern ridge — category 4A difficulty (see Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turiy Lake, then:

• up the moraine,
• then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is broken, thorough belay!),
• to the left of two rocky outcrops along a steep snowy ascent to the Ertzog saddle. Bivouac location.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope:

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks

PASSPORT

Ascent to v. Hokel via the Eastern ridge

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak, route — v. Hokel, 3645 m, ascent via the Eastern ridge from the saddle between v. Hokel and the Nameless peak on the left.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m length of sections: II cat. diff. — 400 m

3. Traverse of Sulakhat massif (3600 m) from the south, in winter — category 2A (Fig. 8)

From Dombay plain past the Alibek alpine camp to the hut on the Alibek glacier moraine. Then up the moraine and, before reaching the upper summer bivouac, exit right onto the Dvuyazychnýy glacier and along the right side of the steep part of the tongue — to the upper plateau. Across the plateau up in the direction of the pass and under the rocky ridge of Kvadratny peak — bivouac (cave). From Dombay plain 7–8 hours. From the bivouac through the depression between Kvadratny peak and Bezýmyannaya I peak to the saddle between Bezýmyannaya I and Bezýmyannaya II peaks and through Bezýmyannaya II peak exit onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau. Ascent to the South Sulakhat peak via the snow-covered spur of the ridge. From the South peak along the ledge to the couloir and up it to the ridge. (Protection is with pitons! Most difficult section of the traverse!) Past the cairn left of the ridge along the ledge to the last gendarme before the North peak. Bypass the gendarme on the left along the ledge and along the ridge — exit onto the North peak. The path from the bivouac takes 5–6 hours. From the peak, descend back to the saddle between the peak and the gendarme, from here descend along the left side of the couloir onto the Yuzhno-Sulakhatskoye plateau (danger of avalanches in winter!) and return to the bivouac under Kvadratny peak. Descent takes 3–4 hours. From the bivouac to Dombay plain — 3–4 hours. The route is avalanche-prone!

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — under Kvadratny peak.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.

Ascent Logbook

1. 2 Caucasus. 2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass. Section number according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Sofruju Zub, height 3629 m, via the northwest spur.
3. Proposed - 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: Rocky.
5. Route elevation gain 459 m (by altimeter). Route length: 650 m. Section lengths: 1st category of difficulty – 150 m, 2nd category of difficulty – 250 m, 3rd category of difficulty – 250 m. Average steepness: 45°. Main part of the route — 50°; entire route — 45°.