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Route Description: ромбу С стены
Winter ascent to the summit of Chatyn via the Myshlyaev's route, category 6B, on the north wall, with a detailed description of tactics and technical aspects.
- Class of winter ascents.
- Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
- Chatyn via "Romb" chimneys of the Northern wall (Myshlyaev's route).
- Difficulty category — 6B.
- Height difference — 768 m, route length — 1175 m.
- Length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 575 m. Length of sections with 6 diff. cat. — 515 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 86°.
- Pitons driven: | rock | ice | protection elements | bolt (used) | | :--: | :-: | :-----------------: | :---------: |
Route Description: ромбу С стены
**First winter ascent of the north wall of Chatyn via L. Myshlyaev's Route (grade 6B).**
Passport
- Technical class
- Central Caucasus
- Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
- 6B category of difficulty
- Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)
Route Description: ромбу С стены
Ascent to the summit of Chatyn via the diamond of the North wall, 6A difficulty category, completed in 8 days using 59 pitons.
Passport
- Class — technical.
- Central Caucasus. 2.4
- Chatyn Glavny (4368 m), via the diamond-shaped section of the North Face.
- Difficulty category: 6A.
- Height difference of the wall section of the route — 770 m. Length — 1200 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 80°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m.
- Pitons left on the route:
Route Description: ромбу С стены
Description of the 6B category difficulty route to the summit of Chatyn (4368 m) diagonally across the "diamond" of the Northern wall in the Central Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
- Peak Chatyn — 4368 m, route along the diagonal of the "diamond" on the North Wall, combined (10. Chernoslivina).
- 6B difficulty category.
- Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5B–6B difficulty — 560 m, average steepness — 63°.
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: ромбу С стены
Description of a new 6B category route ascent via the north wall of Chatyn-tau peak through "the diamond" to the left of Snesarev's route.
2286
V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":
- PRIMITIVE ROUTE
- SNESAREV'S ROUTE
- CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
- MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE
PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)
Route Description: ромбу С стены
The ascent of the "Shkhelda" ARCS team to the summit of Chatyn Main via the 6B category route on the "Rhombus" wall in 1989.
Ascent to Peak Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity by the AUSB "Shkhelda" team led by M.E. Danilchik as part of the AUSB Championship and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO trade unions in 1989.
- Class: technical.
- Region: Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
- Object: Peak Chatyn Main via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity (4368 m)
- Route characteristics: | Route elevation gain | 795 m. | | :--------------------------------------: | :----: | | Route length | 950 m. | | Length of the "diamond" wall | 435 m. |
Route Description: В кф. СВ гребня
Route 4A category of complexity to the summit of Chegetkara via the Southeast counterfort, description of the path, specifics and necessary equipment.
138. Chegetkara via the South-Eastern counterfort (B. Garf's itinerary, category IV).
Route Description: с юго-востока
Ascent to Shtavler peak via South-eastern ridge, complexity category 2A, combined route.
338. Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A,
fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across
grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent
of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac.
From Nakra village 4–5 hours.
From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to
the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple
destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler.
From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.
Route Description: левому кф. Ю стены
**Category 4B climb via the West face of the South ridge of Shtavler peak**, a combined route with a detailed description from the village of Nakra to the summit.
- Shtavler via the West wall of the South ridge (combined route, V. Kozyavkina, cat. 4B, fig. 32, 44). From the village of Nakra, follow the road to the first stream. Here, turn left and ascend through the forest, grassy slopes, and scree of the Southeast ridge of Shtavler peak. Then traverse left across the southern grassy slopes of Shtavler to reach the col of the South ridge. From the col, descend to the Zapadny Shtavler glacier. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the glacier below the West wall of Shtavler. From the moraine, approach the right side of the West wall of Shtavler peak via the glacier. From the glacier, ascend a steep snowy slope to the right of two rock ridges, then via large scree and easy rocks up and left to the top of the right rock ridge. From the ridge, ascend a snowy slope, then 12–15 m of monolithic, above-average difficulty rocks of the wall to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend up and left 18–20 m via a difficult wall. Then 10–12 m up a difficult corner leads to the next ledge. From the ledge, ascend 80–120 m up smoothed, moderately difficult slabs to a snow patch, and from there to a platform on a snowy rock ridge. From the platform, ascend 30–40 m up the ridge to below overhanging rocks. Below the wall, traverse right and ascend 200–250 m up heavily broken, tiled rocks of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks) to a platform on the ridge below the wall. Bivouac. From the moraine, 6–8 hours. From the platform, ascend 50 m up a difficult wall to inclined slabs. Ascend 30–40 m up the slabs. Continue up easy snowy rocks of the ridge, then 150–200 m up a steep ice-and-snow ridge (avalanches) to below the right side of the overhanging rocks of the West wall. From here, ascend 200–250 m up broken rocks of moderate difficulty (rocks, “live” rocks) with snowy sections to the South ridge of Shtavler (cairn). From the bivouac on the West wall, 5–6 hours.
Route Description: Ю гребню
Ascent to Shkhelda East via the southern ridge through the gendarme "Petukh", category of complexity 4B, duration of the route is 4 days.