Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.

2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.

3. Peak Chatyn — 4368 m, route along the diagonal of the "diamond" on the North Wall, combined (10. Chernoslivina).

4. 6B difficulty category.

5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5B–6B difficulty — 560 m, average steepness — 63°.

6. Pitons hammered: — previously hammered pitons were not used.

7. Total climbing hours — 20 hours.

8. One bivouac on the "wing", semi-reclined.

9. Team leader: Bershov Sergey Igorevich — Master of Sports of International Class, Honored Master of Sports, team members: Vortov Yuriy Ivanovich — Master of Sports, Kopeyka Gennadiy Vasilievich — Candidate for Master of Sports, Pastukh Viktor Ivanovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, Koval Aleksandr Filippovich — Candidate for Master of Sports.

10. Coach: Shevchenko Aleksandr Vasilievich — Honored Coach of the RSFSR.

11. Departure to the route — July 21, 1986, at 6:00, reached the summit — July 22, 1986, at 14:00, returned to the "Elbrus" alpine base — July 23, 1986, at 12:00.

12. Team from the Elbrus Alpine Training and Sports Base.

13. Climbing hours

UIAA Scheme

Equipment left by previous groups

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Route description by sections.

Section: R0–R3. Approach to the wall is not complicated. Crossing the bergschrund via an ice wall. Further, an ice slope covered with a thin layer of snow.

3-4

• Complicated transition from ice to the Sn­esarevskaya shelf
• Rocks are icy
• Movement in galoshes

4-5

• After overcoming the ice-filled inner corner, the first one puts on galoshes

5-6

• The overhanging wall is overcome by a "pender" from right to left
• Further, a sheer wall with small holds
• A steep icy crevice leads to an inclined shelf (a convenient spot for belaying)

6-8

• The inner corner with a cornice is overcome using artificial climbing aids (I.T.O.)
• Further, along the wall to the left, overcoming overhanging sections via a small crevice (I.T.O.)
• Approach to a small ledge under the cornice via an ice-filled, narrow chimney

8-10

• Sheer wall with small holds covered in ice
• Climbing using I.T.O. (convenient belay point with bolts)
• Exit to the Abalakovskaya shelf via steep, glazed rocks, type "ram's foreheads"
• On the shelf, a convenient belay point

10–11

• Traverse 20 m to the left, along an ice-filled shelf, to a platform under a cornice with bolts for bivouac
• Control cairn
• No notes found in the cairn

11–12

• A large cornice is overcome from the right using I.T.O.
• 5 m of sheer "handrails"

12–13. A smooth, steep wall ends with a convenient belay point with bolts.

13–15

• The cornice is bypassed from the left via a steep, icy inner corner.
• Further — along the wall with small holds under an inclined, wide chimney (belay point on a sling).
• Then, via an overhanging chimney, exit to a shelf with bolts.

15–16

• Cornice, then a sheer wall with small, easily breaking holds is overcome using ladders and "krukonogi" along a "bolt path".
• Bolts are chipped, ears are missing; there are sections of 5–7 m with very difficult climbing.
• This section is overcome with extreme caution due to live rocks and easily breaking slabs.
• Belay point on a sling (bolt, ice screw).

I6–I7

• Move right and up a wet inner corner (very difficult climbing) — exit to a shelf.
• Convenient belay spot under a cornice.
• This section is climbed quickly as it is under a "shower" from melting snow on the "roof" of Chatyn.

I7–20

• Movement upwards — to the left.
• Traverse along ledges and ascent via strongly ice-filled, partly overhanging inner corners and chimneys — exit to the "roof".
• Inconvenient belay points.
• This section is particularly challenging due to the large amount of seeping ice and live rocks.

20-21

• After 20 m — exit via simple, destroyed rocks to a shelf.
• Having widened and leveled it, organized convenient spots for a semi-reclined bivouac in a tent.
• For belaying and self-belaying, bolt and rock pitons were hammered.
• Tensioned handrails were set up through the tent.

21-25

• Quite complicated, strongly destroyed rocks, climbed with extreme caution.
• There are small ice sections, which the first one overcomes in crampons.
• Movement right-upwards along small rock ridges leading to the pre-summit ridge westward of Chatyn's main summit.

25-26

• Exit to the ridge via a not-steep ice slope with a 10-cm snow layer.
• Belaying using ice screws.

26-27

• Along a simple ridge, 40 m to the summit.
• Belaying via выступы.

Descent: along the West Ridge to the col and further down the Uzhbinskiy icefall to the "German bivouacs".

Special attention was paid to belaying using ice screws:

• when passing the ridge between the Main and West Chatyn;
• when descending the strongly destroyed Uzhbinskiy icefall.