1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: traverse of Agibalova peaks (West-East towers) – Akritov.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock: semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 1050 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 210 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 150 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
6. Equipment used: pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 12 pcs., "friends" — 2 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours (days): 10/1

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Region: Caucasus, 2.6, Sugansky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Severnaia, 3735 m, via West ridge and inner corner.
4. Estimated category: 3A rock, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m, route length — 550 m, section lengths:
   • 4th category — 35 m
   • 3rd category — 70 m
   • 2nd category — 240 m, average steepness of main route part — 50°, total route — 45°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 4 — on the tower.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugan Range, classification section number – 2.6.
2. Aikhva North (3735 m); via the West face. (“dollar”).
3. Proposed category: 3A; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock.
5. Route height difference – 355 m (by GPS). Route length – 715 m. Steepness of key sections – up to 93°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 2 m.
6. Hooks left on the route – none.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT AYKHVA UZLOVAIA, PROPOSED CATEGORY 2A TEAM MAK "FRILINE" November 3, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport.

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range.
3. Galdor Glavny via the Southeast wall.
4. Complexity category 5B.
5. Wall section height difference — 380 m. Wall section length — 500 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 170 m. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 20 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 73°.

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

Gülchi

The Gülchi massif (4477 m) consists of the peaks Gülchi and Rtsy­vash­ki. It is located in the western part of the Sugansky Ridge, between the peak of Sugan­Tau (located east of the Rtsy­vash­ki pass, to which the Southeast ridge of Gülchi descends) and the peak of Komsomol Ukrainy (to which the North ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki approaches). From under the wall of the Southwest shoulder of Gülchi in the Akhsu gorge depart:

• Southwest ridge with the peak Akhsu,
• from the East shoulder to the East Rtsy­vash­ki glacier descends a steep rocky edge. Between the southeast and south ridges of Gülchi lies the Akhsu glacier, feeding the Akhsu river, and in a small corrie under the southern slopes of the peak Akhsu - a small glacier Maly Akhsu, the flow of which is a tributary of the Akhsu river. From the summit tower of Gülchi to the northwest departs a practically uninterrupted ice-covered ridge of the main massif Gülchi, ending with a small two-humped peak Rtsy­vash­ki. Beyond Rtsy­vash­ki, the ridge of the massif:
• turns north,
• descends to the ice saddle,

Donpakh 1000 Nnd

combined, 2B cat. dif. 10 drainevo From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the northwest, traversing the southern scree and grassy slopes of the Nakhashbita and Donpakh massifs, exit to the Donpakh glacier. Time — 1–1.5 hours. When moving along the moraines, beware of possible rockfalls from the slopes of the Donpakh massif. From the Donpakh glacier, to the right along the ascent to the east along a small glacier, flowing down from the slopes of the South and Main Donpakh (photo 29). The glacier with a steepness of 20–30° is uncomplicated, it leads through a small ridge into a wide scree couloir with separate sections of rocks and snow. The couloir begins at a small saddle between the Donpakh South peak to the north and two "gendarmes" to the south, sometimes referred to as

Doppakh South

Rock, cat. 3

3 ridge — ski descent The route was first ascended in 1937. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, follow the Doppakh glacier and then to the ridge separating a small unnamed glacier and a wide scree-filled couloir on the southwest slopes of Doppakh peak. The southern path coincides with the above-described Route IX. Here, on a wide scree ridge before the western wall of the peak, there's a campsite (photo 29). From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 3–4 hours. From the campsite, ascend along the ridge to the wall. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The wall is about 200 m high, composed of difficult, sometimes wet rocks, overcome with careful belaying using ledges and 10–15 pitons. Upon exiting the wall onto the southern ridge, a 20-meter wall is overcome using the Zalpug method. From here, follow a chimney about 10 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Variations:

• The ascent up the wall can be done slightly to the left (north) of the described route — a couloir variant.
• This variant is more difficult. The descent from the peak to the campsite and further to the "Nakhashbita" clearing follows Route 1B and takes about 4 hours.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4