The ridge is a series of snowy-icy ascents and flat snowy sections. On flat sections, movement is simultaneous, keeping to the right side (there are cornices on the left). Cornices are clearly visible from the "lukovaya poliana" and from certain sections of the route (photo 6). Ascend with insurance through an ice axe or ice screws. After a failure in the ridge, there is a steep ascent intersected by a series of narrow closed crevices. Ascent in the direction of the rocky outcrop with alternate insurance. From the rocky outcrop - straight up, with an exit to the gentle part of the ridge before the pre-summit shoulder. Here is a bivouac. In case of strong winds, tents can be set up in a hollow on the left (photo not provided). To the bivouac - 10-12 hours, height 5300-5400 m. The gain in height is approximately 1100-1200 m.

Climbing Report: Lenin Peak (7134) via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier

1. Climbing Passport

Region: Trans-Alay Range (North Pamir). Valley: Sauksay. Classification category according to the 2013 table – 4.4. Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: via the West Ridge from Malaya Saukdara Glacier. Proposed category – 5A. Route type: ice and snow. Route elevation gain: 2360 m (by altimeter). Team's total climbing hours: 24 hours, 3 days. Team leader: Andrei Alexandrovich Lebedev (Moscow), Master of Sports of International Class in Tourism. Team members:

• Alexei Alexandrovich Vorobyev (Podolsk)
• Andrei Viktorovich Zharov (Moscow, Zelenograd)
• Ivan Nikolaevich Zhdanov (Moscow)
• Bogdan Dmitrievich Savchinskiy (Kiev)
• Alexei Sergeevich Timoshenkov (Moscow, Zelenograd)

traverse of peaks 5150 m and 5100 m from east to west. Peaks 5150 and 5100 m are located in the main ridge of the western part of the Zavlaisky ridge and close the Kок-Kyik gorge. The traverse is made from east to west. 1st day: approaches from the intermediate base camp of the Sverdlovsk expedition (3800 m), located in the upper reaches of the X Kок-Kyik gorge near the lake, under the beginning of the route. Overnight on the moraine, height 4200 m. 2nd day: exit at 6:00 am through a stream flowing from under the glacier, which descends from the slopes of peaks 5600 m (loss of height up to 100 m), then ascent to the glacier and firn slope into the gap between peaks 5600 and 5150 m. Route features:

• Traverse in good weather conditions takes 9 hours.
• In bad weather, there are places for a tent practically along the entire route.
• The glacier is crossed in a rope team, as there are closed crevices.
• The firn slope has a steepness of 35 to 50°.
• From the foot to the upper part of the pass requires about 3 hours.

Ascent via the northern slope, descent to Profsoyuzov pass. Cat. diff. 2A.

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of Oktyabrsky glacier on the right (orogr.) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai river. Just before the glacier, which flows from Profsoyuzov pass, one needs to ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. Then, turn left and ascend along the right side of the covered glacier to an altitude of about 5000 m. In the middle part of the glacier, there are many wide crevasses. The path must be found between the crevasse zone and the avalanche cones descending from the right (orogr.) from the slope of peak "5538". Movement on the glacier is in rope teams, with simultaneous belay. Crossing crevasses is done with alternate belay. The bivouac is set up in the middle part, slightly below Profsoyuzov pass, at an altitude of about 5000 m. The duration of the path from the base camp to the bivouac is 5–6 hours.

Day 2

Route Description

Ascent to peak "5812" via the western ridge

Cat. difficulty 2B

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the peak, two branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded. The duration of the path to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the gully of a stream flowing from a snowfield located in the cirque between the S and W ridges. The slope is 10°–15°. Further, the path goes along a slope of 30°–35° towards the S counterfort of the W ridge. The slope is covered with medium-sized scree. The overnight camping spot is chosen at an altitude of about 4800 m on the S slope of the W ridge, where a campsite can be set up with a small amount of labor and there are snowfields to fetch water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight camping spot is 3.5–4 hours.

Ascent via the Eastern ridge from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Descent to the Profsoyuzov Pass. Cat. 4A

Day 1

Departure at 10:00 from the base camp, located at an altitude of 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier, on the right (orographic) side of the valley. The path leads along the right side of the Oktyabrsky glacier, first along the lateral moraine, then along the right bank of the Kok-Sai River. Shortly before the glacier, which flows from the Profsoyuzov Pass, one must ascend to the right lateral moraine and reach the glacier along it. The tongue of the glacier, descending from the Profsoyuzov Pass, must be crossed in a rope team with simultaneous belay. The same path is used to cross two more glaciers, which descend from the Zulumart ridge towards the Oktyabrsky glacier. The glaciers are covered with soggy snow and have many hidden crevasses. Under the eastern ridge of peak "6146" on the moraine is a suitable place for a bivouac.

The Summit!

Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:

• №3
• №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
• strong wind,
• poor visibility.

Early in the morning, with 250 kg of cargo on the sleds. Having descended along the gentle snowy slope from the pass to the Fedchenko Glacier, we turned south, crossed the glacier, and approached the slopes of Pik Peredovoy. Here, the next intermediate camp was organized. The transition with sleds from the cave to the bivouac under Pik Peredovoy takes 10-12 hours.

3rd day

The group departed from the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy at 17:00 in the direction of the "rusty" counterforce. A long ridge branching off from the summit 6525 m in the western direction divides the cirque of Pik Revolyutsii into two parts: northern and southern. The northern part of the cirque is a series of gradually rising plateaus with sections of relatively steep ascent between them. In the upper part, there is a heavily broken icefall, which can be bypassed under the slopes of the western ridge of the 6300 m summit, and then a passage along huge snowfields is possible to the ridge of the 6525 m summit. The group rejected this path and chose a more logical and shorter route: into the southern part of the cirque, which is located somewhat lower and more gentle. Having bypassed numerous crevices, we approached the foot of the "rusty" counterforce. There is a convenient platform and water (3 hours).

4th day

From the bivouac, the group departed at 8:00 am. The ascent goes along a wide snow-ice couloir, the first from the "rusty" counterforce. The neighboring couloirs are narrow, steep, and covered with flow ice in the upper part. The path through the couloir:

the couloir between the rocky outcrops in the direction of the right lowering in the ridge. At first the snow is loose, then the slope becomes steeper, and the snow becomes hard. Movement along the ridge is via small snow hollows, and then through a narrow col we emerge onto a gently rising scree. Then again a snowy ascent and the path goes along a gently sloping ridge with alternating small snowy ascents and depressions. The snow is loose and friable, and in some places there are patches of flow ice. The summit itself is a large snow dome with a steep wall on the approach side (3–4 ropes). The ascent to the summit is in the middle part of the wall, as there is ice near the rocks, and movement along the rocks is very dangerous due to their instability. The movement is varied (from the snow plateau to the summit — 3 hours). The group reached the summit

Kichkidar via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route Description:

The path from the "Ullutau" alpine base lies along the trail of the "Kullumkol" gorge, exiting to the "Nizhnie-Kichkidars" overnight camps on the Western Yunom-Su glacier, and then on to the "Nizhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From the "Verkhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps, the path initially lies in the direction of the "Donkina" pass, with an ascent to the right part of the glacier and then towards the steep Western ridge. Approaching it, the glacier is heavily crevassed (travel strictly roped), we approach the right side of the ridge from the "Kichkidar" summit and ascend via ice and snow, bypassing the rocky wall at the base of the Western ridge and its first gendarme on the right. On the saddle, turn slightly right and then proceed along snowy slabs and, in places, steep rocks, heading towards the 2nd small gendarme; this is a control cairn. From it, upwards, bypassing the high gendarmes and walls on the left (belaying is mandatory), interspersed with snowy sections of the Western ridge, we reach the summit. The journey takes 4-5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the path of 2A cat. diff. to the "Zaitsev" To the "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie" overnight camps!