the couloir between the rocky outcrops in the direction of the right lowering in the ridge. At first the snow is loose, then the slope becomes steeper, and the snow becomes hard. Movement along the ridge is via small snow hollows, and then through a narrow col we emerge onto a gently rising scree. Then again a snowy ascent and the path goes along a gently sloping ridge with alternating small snowy ascents and depressions. The snow is loose and friable, and in some places there are patches of flow ice.

The summit itself is a large snow dome with a steep wall on the approach side (3–4 ropes). The ascent to the summit is in the middle part of the wall, as there is ice near the rocks, and movement along the rocks is very dangerous due to their instability. The movement is varied (from the snow plateau to the summit — 3 hours). The group reached the summit at 15:00.

The descent from the summit followed the ascent route to the snow plateau, where the backpacks were left (2 hours).

Having reached the snow plateau, the group:

• did not continue along the ascent route.
• chose an alternative descent option, as the shortest and simplest.

From the snow plateau, along a short wall (1.5–2 ropes), we descended onto the glacier, which flows down from the Akademii Nauk ridge in the northern part of the Peak Revolyutsii cirque. The movement is varied, as the snow lies in a thin layer on the ice and crampons do not hold well. Closed crevices are often encountered. After descending onto a wide plateau, we spent the night before the icefall (2.5–3 hours).

Day 5

We bypass the icefall on the right, under the slopes of the 13800 peak, and return to the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy (4 hours)

In terms of technical difficulties, the route taken can be compared to the ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the north ridge (4A category), which some group members had previously done, and, in the group's opinion, can be rated as 4A–4B category of difficulty.

The group proposes to name the peak after a Russian writer