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Description of the 3A category route to the Sever peak (2855 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the eastern ridge.

Й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч

Смить­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н­г­ш­щ­з­х­ъ­ф­ы­в­а­п

Ы­в­а­п­р­о­л­д­ж­э­я­ч­с­м­и­т­ь­бю­й­ц­у­к­е­н

Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:

  • S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
  • S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
  • B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.
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Traversing the Strelnikov (3284 m) and Ostrov Damansky (3276 m) peaks via the western slope in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, category IIIb difficulty, first ascent.

Ascent Certificate for the Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope, category 3B.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
  2. Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope.
  3. Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
  4. The route is characterized by rocky terrain.
  5. Elevation gain 400 m, distance 1130 m, traverse distance 0.5 km on the map, average slope — traverse.
  6. 27 rock and wired pitons used.
  7. Team's total climbing time — 10 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Team members:
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Trëhglavaja via the Eastern couloir, traverse, category 2A complexity, with details on passing sections and safety recommendations.

As­cent pass­port to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N) 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. East­ern Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N), 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse. 3. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. 4. Route char­ac­ter — com­bined. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 1400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afa­nasiev S.A. III grade, Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the peak and re­turn on May 1, 2001. De­scrip­tion of the as­cent route to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C-N) 2557 m via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the re­verse traverse of the clas­si­fied route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhgla­vaya traverse, start­ing with the as­cent via S ridge. This route starts from the de­scend­ing couloir of east­ern ex­po­sure be­tween the peaks South­ern and Cen­tral Trekhgla­vaya. Here is the de­scent from all routes to the South­ern and Cen­tral peaks of Trekhgla­vaya, and some­times peo­ple de­scend af­ter as­cend­ing to the North­ern Trekhgla­vaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow cov­ered scree. Some­times it is ava­lanch­e-haz­ard­ous. The up­per part of the couloir is lo­cated in the nar­row rocky jaws of the South­ern and Cen­tral tow­ers and snow here some years per­sists till the end of sum­mer. Sec­tion R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Up­per part of the couloir. On the bridge snow cor­niche up to 2 m. Ropes. Sec­tion R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− As­cent to the Cen­tral tow­er of Trekhgla­vaya can be done by two vari­ants:

  • first one via South­ern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons;
  • sec­ond — left of the ridge via de­scend­ing path, one-two rope lengths. This sec­tion is the key one for the route 1B cat.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of General Koryakov (3032 m) along the south-west ridge, complexity category 1, Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy.

As­cent pass­port to the ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ula­gol gul­ly, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Ver­tex of Gen­er­al Ko­rya­kov (3032 m) via North­ern slope. 3. Pro­posed cat. III dif­fi­cul­ty, first as­cent. 4. Char­ac­ter of the route is rocky. 5. Al­ti­tude dif­fer­ence 630 m. dis­tance 950 m. av­er­age steep­ness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stop­pers 11 pcs. 7. Team's work­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No biv­ou­acs on the route. 9. Group: Ak­syo­nov A.V. CMS, Vas­il­yev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vi­no­gra­dov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Go­lo­vin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Gey­da­rov K.G. 3rd sports rank, March­u­kov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afa­na­syev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the sum­mit and re­turn April 30, 2010.

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Report on the first ascent of Nosorog peak via the route along the western counterfort of the northern ridge, category 3B complexity.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NOSOROG VIA THE ROUTE ON THE WESTERN COUNTERFORT OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORY BAIKALA" CLUB UNDER THE PROJECT "NEVOZMOZHNO ETO NE NAVSEGDA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM 15.10.2018 TO 15.10.2018

I. Ascent Report Form

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBoyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBayarsaikhan Luvsangorj Mongol, badge; Pyankovskaya Svetlana Petrovna, 3rd sports rank; Shelikov Aleksey Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich
1.4OrganizationAlpinism and Active Recreation Club "Gory Baikala"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the first ascent to the Plastun peak via the southern couloir of the eastern ridge, category 2B, by the Baikal Alpine School team on October 30, 2020.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Plastun via the South couloir of the East ridge, approximately category 2B, by the team of the Baikal Alpine School on October 30, 2020. Irkutsk 2020

I. Ascent Report

No.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderAfanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsLisov M.A. — 2nd sports rank, Novikov I.V. — 3rd sports rank, Mordovin A.A. — 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachAfanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports
1.4OrganizationBaikal Alpine School
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Report on the first ascent of Mt. Monakh 2850 m via the eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.

Krasnoyarsk City Alpine Federation Report on the first ascent of Mt. Monakh 2850 m Via the Eastern ridge Approximately 3B category of difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2021

Route Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKatanaev S.Yu., CMS
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 3A route via the right-hand south-eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Bratchanaka peak (2501 m) in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan.

Report

On the First Ascent

Peak Bratchanaka (2501 m) Right Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge. Route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A. A. Participants:

  • Ilyinskiy V. A.
  • Tokmachev A. A. Ascent completed on January 26, 2019.

I. Ascent Passport

| № | 1. General Information | |

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Report on the first ascent of Yanichar peak (2520 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge via the Southwest ridge, complexity category 3A.

First Ascent Report

About the First Ascent

Yanichara Peak (2520 m) — Southwest Ridge — 3A category route (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

  • Kuzmenko I.M.
  • Kolosov A.D.
  • Kazantseva E.V.
  • Pechenin K.V.

I. Ascent Passport

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Report on the ascent to Jaylyk peak via 5B category route on the left part of the 3 wall of the shoulder, south ridge.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderKravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsShchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS
1.3Full Name of CoachVasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich
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