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Route Description: В гребню
Description of the 3A category route to the Sever peak (2855 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the eastern ridge.
Йцукенгшщзхъфывапролджэяч
Смитьбюйцукенгшщзхъфывап
Ывапролджэячсмитьбюйцукен
Covering letter. Hello, respected members of the classification commission! The leader of this ascent, B.A. Khandazhapov, is addressing you. As part of the FASIO training camp held in the Sayan Mountains from November 1 to 9, 2014, we completed this ascent. After a meeting of the coaching council consisting of:
- S.A. Kirillov — senior coach,
- S.V. Kosoturov — training officer,
- B.A. Khandazhapov — instructor, 3rd category, it was decided to petition the FAR classification commission to raise the category of difficulty of this route to 3A. Under my leadership, the participants compiled a report. I ask you to familiarize yourselves with it and make a decision. Sincerely, B.A. Khandazhapov.
Route Description: З гребню, траверс
Traversing the Strelnikov (3284 m) and Ostrov Damansky (3276 m) peaks via the western slope in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, category IIIb difficulty, first ascent.
Ascent Certificate for the Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope, category 3B.
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
- Strelnikov Peak 3284 m – Ostriv Damanskyi 3276 m traverse via the Western slope.
- Proposed category 3B, first ascent.
- The route is characterized by rocky terrain.
- Elevation gain 400 m, distance 1130 m, traverse distance 0.5 km on the map, average slope — traverse.
- 27 rock and wired pitons used.
- Team's total climbing time — 10 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team members:
Route Description: В кулуару, траверс
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Trëhglavaja via the Eastern couloir, traverse, category 2A complexity, with details on passing sections and safety recommendations.
Ascent passport to the peak Trekhglavaya (C — N) 2557 m, via Eastern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, section 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhglavaya (C — N), 2557 m, via Eastern couloir, traverse. 3. Proposed cat. 2A, first ascent. 4. Route character — combined. 5. Height difference 300 m, length 1400 m, average steepness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's moving hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afanasiev S.A. III grade, Afanasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afanasiev A.E. MS. 11. Ascent to the peak and return on May 1, 2001. Description of the ascent route to the peak Trekhglavaya (C-N) 2557 m via Eastern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the reverse traverse of the classified route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhglavaya traverse, starting with the ascent via S ridge. This route starts from the descending couloir of eastern exposure between the peaks Southern and Central Trekhglavaya. Here is the descent from all routes to the Southern and Central peaks of Trekhglavaya, and sometimes people descend after ascending to the Northern Trekhglavaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow covered scree. Sometimes it is avalanche-hazardous. The upper part of the couloir is located in the narrow rocky jaws of the Southern and Central towers and snow here some years persists till the end of summer. Section R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Upper part of the couloir. On the bridge snow corniche up to 2 m. Ropes. Section R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− Ascent to the Central tower of Trekhglavaya can be done by two variants:
- first one via Southern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons;
- second — left of the ridge via descending path, one-two rope lengths. This section is the key one for the route 1B cat.
Route Description: Ю склону ЮЗ гребня
Description of the ascent route to the summit of General Koryakov (3032 m) along the south-west ridge, complexity category 1, Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy.
Ascent passport to the vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via South-Western ridge, cat. III difficulty. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Ulagol gully, section 6.1. 2. Vertex of General Koryakov (3032 m) via Northern slope. 3. Proposed cat. III difficulty, first ascent. 4. Character of the route is rocky. 5. Altitude difference 630 m. distance 950 m. average steepness 47°. 6. Pitons driven: rocky and stoppers 11 pcs. 7. Team's working hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Group: Aksyonov A.V. CMS, Vasilyev M.Yu. 3rd sports rank, Vinogradov N.N. 3rd sports rank, Golovin V.V. 3rd sports rank, Geydarov K.G. 3rd sports rank, Marchukov K.F. 3rd sports rank. 10. Coach Afanasyev A.E. MS. 11. Ascent to the summit and return April 30, 2010.
Route Description: З кф. С гребня
Report on the first ascent of Nosorog peak via the route along the western counterfort of the northern ridge, category 3B complexity.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NOSOROG VIA THE ROUTE ON THE WESTERN COUNTERFORT OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF THE "GORY BAIKALA" CLUB UNDER THE PROJECT "NEVOZMOZHNO ETO NE NAVSEGDA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM 15.10.2018 TO 15.10.2018
I. Ascent Report Form
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Boyko Aleksey Andreevich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Bayarsaikhan Luvsangorj Mongol, badge; Pyankovskaya Svetlana Petrovna, 3rd sports rank; Shelikov Aleksey Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism and Active Recreation Club "Gory Baikala" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня
Report on the first ascent to the Plastun peak via the southern couloir of the eastern ridge, category 2B, by the Baikal Alpine School team on October 30, 2020.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Plastun via the South couloir of the East ridge, approximately category 2B, by the team of the Baikal Alpine School on October 30, 2020. Irkutsk 2020
I. Ascent Report
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Lisov M.A. — 2nd sports rank, Novikov I.V. — 3rd sports rank, Mordovin A.A. — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Baikal Alpine School |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Mt. Monakh 2850 m via the eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for climbers.
Krasnoyarsk City Alpine Federation
Report on the first ascent of Mt. Monakh 2850 m
Via the Eastern ridge
Approximately 3B category of difficulty.
Krasnoyarsk 2021
Route Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Katanaev S.Yu., CMS |
Route Description: правый ЮВ кф. Ю гребня
Report on the first ascent of a Category 3A route via the right-hand south-eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Bratchanaka peak (2501 m) in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan.
Report
On the First Ascent
Peak Bratchanaka (2501 m) Right Southeast Buttress of the South Ridge. Route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A. A. Participants:
- Ilyinskiy V. A.
- Tokmachev A. A. Ascent completed on January 26, 2019.
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Yanichar peak (2520 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge via the Southwest ridge, complexity category 3A.
First Ascent Report
About the First Ascent
Yanichara Peak (2520 m) — Southwest Ridge — 3A category route (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:
- Kuzmenko I.M.
- Kolosov A.D.
- Kazantseva E.V.
- Pechenin K.V.
I. Ascent Passport
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
Report on the ascent to Jaylyk peak via 5B category route on the left part of the 3 wall of the shoulder, south ridge.
North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Kravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Shchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich |