56 63

Report

On the third ascent of the route to V. Suganbashi via the left part of the Upper wall (by A. Zadorozhny)

Rostov-on-Don

1977

Protocol

of the analysis of the ascent to the Suganbashi peak via the route of 5B cat. diff., made by the group of participants of the "Digoria" tourist camp on August 19–23, 1977. Present: Head of the training department, Master of Sports of International Class — D.D. Arcishevsky

Russian Mountaineering Championship 1997. Technical Climbing Category. Sugan-Bashi Peak (4450 m). Route: Right part of the Eastern wall — KTSHGV point 2.6.52. Climbed by the team of North Ossetian Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia and the "Ossetia" mountaineering club. Leader: Egorin Sergei Vladimirovich, CMS. Coach: Korablin Boris Nikolaevich, MS USSR, Honored Coach of the RSFSR. Year of ascent: 1997. Address and phone number of the North Ossetian Republican Search and Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia:

• 362035, RSO-Alania, Vladikavkaz
• Kostа Street—273; phone: 74-11-03 Coach Korablin Boris Nikolaevich's phone:
• St. Petersburg
• 246-05-19 (home)

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. 300 years of St. Petersburg — 3505 m; via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 1B cat. dif.; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Length of the key part of the route — 50 m (from the exit point to the North ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with 4 cat. dif. — 2 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 70°.

Fig. 4 8. Tzukhgarty via the East Ridge (V. Popov's combined route, category 4A, fig. 4). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Sugan Ridge between the peaks of Galdor on the right and Tzukhgarty on the left is described in routes 1, 6. On the saddle, turn left and approach along the ridge to the rocky ascent of Tzukhgarty's East Ridge. Climb 40 m up the steep, moderately difficult rocks of the ascent ("live" stones - protection) under the vertical walls.

Report

On the first ascent by the team of the multidisciplinary alpinism club "Freeline" (Essentuki) to the summit of Muldzugi-Barzond on January 28, 2023, via the southwest ridge

Presumably 4B category of difficulty Essentuki 2023

I. Ascent Passport

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MESHENA CENTRALNAYA (3150 m) VIA THE "Southern Counterfort" ROUTE, Category 3B, BY THE "UAL" TEAM FROM APRIL 18, 2022

Climbing Passport

1. General Information 1.1 Team Leader: Gurenko T.Yu., 2nd sports category 1.2 Participants: Chikin A.B., 1st sports category 1.3 Coach: Yakovenko A.N. 1.4 Organization: "UAL"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object 2.1 Caucasus, Rocky Ridge, Digoria 2.2 Urukh Valley

Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: