56 63
Report
On the third ascent of the route to V. Suganbashi via the left part of the Upper wall (by A. Zadorozhny)
Rostov-on-Don
1977
Protocol
of the analysis of the ascent to the Suganbashi peak via the route of 5B cat. diff., made by the group of participants of the "Digoria" tourist camp on August 19–23, 1977.
Present: Head of the training department, Master of Sports of International Class — D.D. Arcishevsky Participants:
- M.T. Arabadzhiev, leader
- V.M. Sokolov
- A.D. Chistyakov
- N.T. Dobrynin
M.T. Arabadzhiev: On August 19, we left the camp together with V.I. Krasovin's group. We approached the Sugan pass around 4:00 p.m. and stopped for the night. The next day, we were at the pass around 10:00 a.m. and descended to the initial bivouac by 12:00 p.m. On August 21, we started the route at 5:00 a.m. The beginning of the route is quite complex, but our progress was facilitated by the preliminary processing of the first 80 meters. Then we proceeded almost independently in teams until we reached the second rock belt.
We approached the "rykuyu" wall around 1:00 p.m. Here, the team of V.M. Sokolov and M.T. Arabadzhiev moved forward. Around 4:00 p.m., the second team started preparing a platform for the tent to the right of the cornice on the snowy ridge, while the first team continued working on the route until 6:00 p.m.
The next day, we started at 6:00 a.m., quickly passed the ropes processed in the evening (about 100 m). Having passed another 2 ropes, we reached несложные скалы, where we moved independently in teams. At 11:00 a.m., we reached the ridge and were at the summit by 12:00 p.m.
The descent was via the Southeast edge, via 5A, and around 5:00 p.m., we descended to the Sugan pass. The route is good, the teams worked normally, we've been climbing together for a long time. No comments.
V.M. Sokolov: I would like to note the fairly quick passage of this route. This was facilitated by good physical shape, weather, and the tactics of the ascent. Preliminary processing was very helpful, as there was ice on the rocks early in the morning, and by the time we worked on the ropes, the ice had melted, allowing for an early start.
N.T. Dobrynin: I liked the route. This was my first 5B ascent this year, so it was a bit more challenging for me than for the guys who had climbed Dzhailyk (Frantsuzov) before this ascent.
A.D. Chistyakov: I liked the route. No comments on the guys. The leadership was unobtrusive but clear. I want to note the clear descent from the summit, which took just over three hours.
D.D. Arcishevsky: Did you hammer in piton hooks?
V.M. Sokolov: Yes, we hammered in two piton hooks for insurance, and four piton hooks from the first ascenders were used.
D.D. Arcishevsky: I have no comments. I acknowledge the leadership and participation.
Issued by
D.D. Arcishevsky
The protocol was recorded by
V.M. Sokolov
Table of the main characteristics of the ascent route to V. Suganbashi
| Date | Characteristic of the section | Average length | Steepness, m | Character of relief | Cat. diff. | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock hooks | Ice hooks | Piton hooks | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 21, 1977 | R0–R1 | 40 | 80 | snow-ice | 3 | — | good | — | — | — | |
| R1–R2 | 75 | 30 | inner corner | 4 | destroyed | — » — | 6 | — | — | ||
| R2–R3 | traverse | 30 | slabs | 4 | "ram's foreheads" | — » — | 3 | — | — | ||
| R3–R4 | 70 | 70 | rocks | 5 | icy | — » — | 10, 2 | — | 2 | ||
| R4–R5 | 60 | 160–180 | slabs | 4 | monolith | — » — | 8 (ledges) | — | — | ||
| R5–R6 | 80 | 35 | inner corner | 4 | wet | — » — | 7 | — | — | ||
| R6–R7 | 80 | 80 | rocks | 5 | monolith | — » — | 9 | — | — | ||
| R7–R8 | 25–30 | 100 | scree shelves | 2 | live rocks | — » — | simultaneously | — | — | ||
| R8–R9 | 90 | 45–50 | inner corner | 5 | wet | — » — | 15, 2 | — | 2 | ||
| R9–R10 | 60 | 50–55 | slabs | 4 | wet, ice | — » — | 6 | — | — | ||
| R10–R11 | 50 | 40 | couloir | 4 | rockfall | — » — | 5 | — | — | ||
| R11–R12 | 75–80 | 15 | rocks | 4 | monolith | — » — | 3 | — | — | ||
| R12–R13 | traverse | 10–13 | shelf | 3 | wet | — » — | ledges | ||||
| Started at 5:00 a.m. Stopped at the bivouac at 4:00 p.m. The bivouac conditions are good. Total climbing hours: 11 (including processing until 4:00 p.m.) | |||||||||||
| August 22 | R13–R14 | 85 | 60 | rocks, cornice | 5 | wet | good | 12 | — | 1 | |
| R14–R15 | 60 | 80–90 | slabs | 5 | icy | — » — | 18 (2) | — | 1 | ||
| R15–R16 | 75 | 35–40 | chimney | 4–5 | — » — | — » — | 12 | — | — | ||
| R16–R17 | 35–40 | 90–100 | shelves | 3 | snow-covered | — » — | 3 (ledges) | ||||
| R17–R18 | 40–50 | 120–140 | rocks | 3–4 | "live" rocks | — » — | ledges | ||||
| Total: | 120 (7) | — | 6 |
The total climbing hours for the second day — 6 hours. The route corresponds to 5B cat. diff.
