- VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m.
Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right.
Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).
Straight up the second slab-like wall with a steepness of (70°, 150 m). In the middle of the wall, there is a small vertical internal corner with a narrow foothold to the right. To the left is a good belay point. The wall ends with an overhanging rock and an overhanging internal corner to the right. Below is a small shelf. From the shelf, traverse to the left under the overhanging rock to a vaguely defined ridge (40 m). Control point.
Then straight up along the ledge to the wall with a cleft. (80°, 100 m). Up through the cleft to a large overhanging stone. Inside the cleft, there are loose stones (piton belay). To the left along the loose internal corner (50°, 40 m). Then along easy, destroyed rocks to the right and up to the internal corner leading to the ridge of Vils peak (upon exiting to the ridge - piton belay). Along the ridge, a snow-ice isthmus, and a snowy pre-summit slope to the summit. On the gendarme before the isthmus is a control point. Descent via route cat. 2A.