the couloir between the rocky outcrops in the direction of the right lowering in the ridge. At first the snow is loose, then the slope becomes steeper, and the snow becomes hard. Movement along the ridge is via small snow hollows, and then through a narrow col we emerge onto a gently rising scree. Then again a snowy ascent and the path goes along a gently sloping ridge with alternating small snowy ascents and depressions. The snow is loose and friable, and in some places there are patches of flow ice. The summit itself is a large snow dome with a steep wall on the approach side (3–4 ropes). The ascent to the summit is in the middle part of the wall, as there is ice near the rocks, and movement along the rocks is very dangerous due to their instability. The movement is varied (from the snow plateau to the summit — 3 hours). The group reached the summit

Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h). Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h). Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

Description

First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m

Geographical Information

Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:

• The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
• The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
• On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
• To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.

Approaches

The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

Ascent to the Akgyul summit via the Uraltsev pass, route 2А cat. diff. (fig. 24, 24a). The Akgyul summit is located in the northern part of the Issykteng — Chokhu spur. Route:

• From the Talgar mountaineering camp
• Through the Zelyonaya Polyana
• To the Uraltsev pass Features:
• In the area of the Uraltsev pass, there are many crevasses on the Shokalsky glacier (be careful!)
• A bivouac can be set up on the Uraltsev pass From the Uraltsev pass, go along the main ridge, then turn southeast onto the Issykteng — Chokhu spur.

Approved by Climbing and Tactics Committee, Protocol #3 dated March 15, 1961 Complexity category: 3A+1

Route Description to the Summit of VSEVOBUCH

The path from the "Talgar" camp goes up the gorge, through the Zelyonaya Polyana and the Burovoy Pass. It takes 7 hours to walk from the camp to the foot of the Burovoy Pass. The ascent to the pass goes along a couloir. After the pass, one should bypass the TUVVO peak from the right and descend to the southeastern branch of the Korzhenevsky Glacier. The route goes through snow and talus. There is a platform convenient for a bivouac at the lower part of the moraine. The night stay is organized here. From the bivouac site, cross the glacier and reach the foot of the VSEVOBUCH peak in 30–50 minutes. It is necessary to move across the glacier in rope teams (due to crevasses along the way). The ascent to the summit starts along a firn slope with a steepness of up to 35–40°, and a length of about 150 m. Then the slope steepness increases to 60–70° and continues for up to 70 m. After this section, the slope gradually becomes less steep, down to 35–40°. Next, one needs to reach a rocky outcrop (see diagram) via a steep ice slope with a steepness of up to 60°. Movement is done with alternate belay using the front teeth of crampons. Four ice screws were driven in up to the first rocky outcrop where the first control cairn is built. The further path goes along a firn-ice slope, about 100 m long, with a steepness of up to 30–40°, with belay using ice screws and rock outcrops. While ascending the slope, move to the right side of the ridge, before a clearly visible gendarme. Then continue ascending along the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along the rocky ridge, leaving it on the left. Belay is done using ice screws.

1. Ascent via the northern slope.
2. Ascent from the southwest.
3. Traverse of the Dynamo­vets — Dzhamalaktau peaks. Ascent via the northern slope, Category 1B route. The Dynamo­vets peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the ridge, which is a watershed between the rivers Sredniy Talgar and Bolshoy Klyuch. The path to the summit:

• From the Tal­gar al­pin­ist camp
• Up the trail through the gorge
• To the "Zelyo­naya po­lya­na" (Green Glade) bivouac site.

72.55

Zharsay, Southeast Ridge, Cat. 1B

The summit "Zharsay" is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau and is situated southeast of the "Metallurg" peak. The height of the "Zharsay" summit is 4650 m. Until 1957, there were no ascents to the "Zharsay" summit. The first complete traverse of the "Zharsay" massif was made by a group of instructors from the "Talgar" alpine camp of the "Metallurg" sports society from August 13 to 18. The group consisted of:

• Kelberg A.V. - leader;
• Sorokin S.V.;
• Porokhnya Yu.I.;
• Chernoshchechkina Z.V. - participants. The path to the foot of the "Zharsay" summit from the "Talgar" alpine camp goes along a trail leading to the training rocks to the east towards the "Ozerny" glacier. The "Ozerny" glacier should be crossed immediately above the training rocks to reach its right (orographic) bank. Along the right part of the "Ozerny" glacier, one needs to proceed southeast to the foot of the "Taverentava" pass. Then, ascend to the pass via a wide couloir covered with medium scree and snow. The descent from the pass is made towards the "Metallurg" glacier. The snow-ice slope is initially traversed to the left, and then to the right, until reaching the rocky outcrops, from which one can descend to the lateral moraines of the glacier. The "Metallurg" glacier cirque is crossed in an easterly direction, and via firn, and then medium rocks, we reach the saddle of the northeast ridge of the "Metallurg" summit. The descent from the saddle towards the "Zharsay" glacier goes along a steep ice slope. Moving along the right part of the glacier, one needs to go around the lateral ridge.

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Maximum 6 participants.
2. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier.
3. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am.
4. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.