Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice.

Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h).

Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h).

Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

The group left the cave at 11:00, crossed the snow plateau of the pass and ascended into the upper cirque formed by the ridge connecting the peaks Bezymyannaya and Vysokiy Tanymas (5993 m) - 2.5–3 h. The group bypassed the icefall at the exit from the cirque on the right along the path under the cliffs of Vysokiy Tanymas. On the snow plateau of the upper cirque - a bivouac. There is no water.

Day 3

Departure from the overnight stay at 7:00, the tent is not removed. A few supplies and warm clothes were taken.

The lower part of the south-eastern ridge ends in a snow-ice dump, which the group bypassed on the left along the path. Here, several crevices were passed along snow bridges.

Further, the route went along the southern slope, 15–20 meters from the ridge due to the overhanging cornices on the north.

Just below the summit, there is an ice ledge, which is bypassed on the left along the path along shallow loose snow (ice under the snow).

The ascent to the summit is along deep steep snow to the left of the ridge.

Between the snow dome of the summit and a group of rocks belonging to the southwestern ridge, there is a shallow ice mulda, protected from the wind. The cairn is built on rocky outcrops above the mulda.

Due to possible crevices, the group moved through the snow on a full rope. In areas with shallow snow - alternate belay. Since such areas are short - no ice screws were used.

Ascent from the overnight stay to the summit: 3–3.5 h.

Descent along the ascent route:

• to the snow plateau - 1.5 h;
• further to the cave - 1.5–2 h;
• to the base camp - 3.5–4 h.

The group proposes to name the summit - "Bezymyannaya". The group believes that this route is a category 2B complexity route and can be compared with the category 2B route to the peak Profssoyuzov on the Central Caucasus.

Group composition:

• Leader - Bongard M.M. - MS
• Participants:
  • Efimov O. - 2nd sports category
  • Bulatov E. - 2nd sports category
  • Spasskiy V. - 3rd sports category
  • Vasilyeva O. - badge-holder
  • Ershov I. - badge-holder