Description of the ascent route to the summit of Iz Zapadnaya Shkheldy Tau via the north wall.

9–10 from the overnight stay, moving up along the destroyed ridge with small scree, approximately 200–220 m long, with an exit to rock shelves. Along the shelves, moving left, we bypass the rock wall approximately — rope lengths. Having bypassed the wall, moving up to the left of the feather-like rock ridge approximately 150–150 m long with pitons protection. Further, the route goes along the wall, representing a cascade of shelves, snow-covered and iced. Rocks protruding from the wall do not have protrusions convenient for belaying. Piton protection, length 3.0–4.0 rope lengths. Moving further, we approach a large horizontal shelf (width 100 m, length about 10 m),

Ascent Passport

1. Class of technical (winter) ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge.
3. Shkhelda Second Western (4310 m), via the northern wall "The Night Before Christmas".
4. Proposed category: 5B difficulty level, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m (by altimeter), length — 2400 m. Length of 5th category difficulty sections — 800 m. Length of 6th category difficulty sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°, main part — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 12, friends — 15, ice screws — 65. Left on the route: rock pitons — 2.
7. Team's travel hours: 23 hours and 2.5 days.
8. Overnights: 1st in a tent on a snowy ridge, 2nd in a tent under a rock outcropping, sitting.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of SHKELDA Second Western, 4310 m, via the southern wall, accomplished by the team from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society:

• AKHTYRSKII O.A. — CMS USSR "Burevestnik" — team captain
• KOVALENKO Yu.I. — CMS USSR -"-
• KOVALEVSKII V.A. — CMS USSR -"-
• SALTYKOV V.M. — CMS USSR -"-
• SHKLYAEV E.V. — CMS USSR -"-

I. Climbing category.

Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route. Tsanner peak, 4000 m, via the N counterfort of the W ridge. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 4A category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1500 m.

ASCENT TO SHAURTU PEAK FROM THE SOUTH VIA THE COULISSE

The Shaurtu peak is located in the Kargashilsky ridge, which separates the Chegem and Cherek-Bezengi valleys. The height of the peak is 4303 m. The route to Shaurtu peak from the south was classified in 1959 as a 2B category of difficulty. The route is combined. Route Description Day 1. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Bezengi glacier to Missees-Kosh. Then you need to descend along the trail to the glacier and move up the glacier, gradually crossing it, to reach the stream flowing from the glacier's cirque, opposite Missees-Kosh. The second stream flows from the cirque of the Salynan glacier. From the Bezengi glacier, you need to ascend to the left (orographically) moraine to the right of the stream. Further, the path goes along the stream, to the "ram's foreheads," here you should cross the stream and move up the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream. To the first "ram's foreheads," you should again cross to the right (in the direction of travel) side of the stream and ascend first through the grass, and then through the talus in the direction of the glacier's tongue. At the point where the glacier flattens, there is a convenient camping spot. The journey from the camp takes 4-5 hours. Day 2.

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude technical class

Team from Voronezh Regional Public Organization "Alpinism Federation"

Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) — via the ridge (H. Tomashek route), category 5B

2008

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, section number according to the classification table 2.5.
2. Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) via the ridge (H. Tomashek route).
3. Category 5B.
4. Route type: combined.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

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Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge, section number according to Classification 2.6.
2. Agibalova West (3770 m) — via the South Edge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 230 m. Total route length — 285 m. Length of sections 4–5 cat. difficulty — 27 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 80°. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°.
6. Hooks left on the route — none. Used on the route placed elements — 12.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: peak Agibalova (3705 m): via West-East towers, traverse
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 900 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°
6. Number of pitons driven: 6 pcs., number of chocks: 5 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours / days: 7 / 1
8. Number of overnight stays: 1 — at a bivouac